October 30, 2009
I'm from canada and i would like to get some movies from the web site
surf free or die. A guy from cinnamon rainbow tell me that you Could
tell me how to get them.
Hey Hassan just go to the website and pick
out a movie and place an order.
Surf was great this weekend as you know. Got in the water with John
M Saturday night and Sunday morning. Also got in with others Sunday
evening. Will miss the upcoming swell this week but will be just north
of West Palm where there is some good surf there predicted as well.
I meant to ask you if you have your "Surf Free or Die" skull
logo in sticker form and for sale? I would like to put one on my car
the shops up here should have em. Otherwise email me your address and
I'll send you a couple. Represent down in Florida!
I'm really interested in something you said this week on your page.
"But are you like me and just a tad curious, as to what most surfers
seem to do for work?"
I have been wondering about this a lot recently. It seems there are
a lot of surfers whose work day will depend on tides, swells, and winds,
and like you said they drop all responsibility to enjoy the surf. If
there are good jobs that allow flexibility for surf, it would be nice
to know what they were. There are a few things that make sense, like
night shift jobs, or artists/photography may be a little flexible, but
I bet there are some really interesting or unique jobs held by surfers.
I am an outside sales rep, so 90% of the time I make my own schedule,
I can go out in the morning to work, take a surf break then head back
to work in the afternoon, or make extra calls one day and be able to
take some time the next day to enjoy the waves. If you do hear from
other surfers about their jobs I would really like to see that in one
of the weekly posts.
Thanks for all the great surf pics
is one of life's biggest mysteries. What surfers do for work.
However, I will say that 90% of the surfers I know have respectable
jobs and family lifestyles. It's that other 10% that has me baffled.
Thanks for the props. Keep working and surfing!
October 26, 2009
Took another trip to Palos Verdes this weekend. Got a little more
adventerous, too, and wandered down some of the cliff sides into what
supposed to be one of the more territorial surf areas in CA. The crew
around PV Cove were incredibly nice and friendly, even offering up
knowledge on swell windows and tides! Definitely not the stereotype.
Stopped off at Indicator, and a cliff top between Indicator and L-
Bay, where though I wasn't hasseled, people certainly weren't offering
any insider info. I even braved the cliff path down into L-Bay.
WOW. What a steep, sketchy path! Sandals are definitely not the
appropriate footwear. Attached are some images from the day trip.
Ben-Once again you came through with some beautiful
pics. No worries. We won't name any of em. Keep up the great work and
I hope you're getting in the water as well.
October 26, 2009
Was checking your website as I do every week and saw a photo of me taken
by Ed OConnell. (Unknown in the Sweet Zone, and a couple others as well.)
Stoked to see it!
I also saw the video you posted. I was curious if you had a contact
email for whoever filmed it. I'd like to ask him/her if he had any clips
Thanks for the updates every week,
Dan -the videographer is Michael Sander. He's
one of the Best around.
And Thanks for the kudos.
October 26, 2009
Yeah I saw the wave. Ed and I were watching you after I got one of my
best Wall waves ever..so good I just came in to end the day on a high.
When you finished your wave I knew you would be coming in since you
worked it all the way to the beach.
Fun, Fun, Fun - the essence of Surfing. So pure it's Divine.
Felipe just sent me 2 more Pics of the biggest lefts he has ever ridden,
in his Life (look smaller since it from the cliffs) this June at ULU.
You may have a story in the works about a historical Surfing figure
A very young 65 still riding giant waves By paddeling...not tow in.
Feel free to drop him a line if so inclined.
My last wave was so much fun. Felipe Pomar
has some Big Brass Balls to be surfing waves that big at his age. Wow.
October 25, 2009
I love it. That was me getting dropped in on by "Pat" from
a friend of a friend, now i have it on film!
You gonna press charges?
read your weekly post at least once a week, sometimes more if there
are more pictures I like to browse them. I love surfing the east coast.
I just started surfing about four years ago now. I dont get to
go out as much as I want to because I live in boston. I was hoping you
could let me know about some good surfing spots around Hampton, maybe
some other east coast spots. Because I look through your photos and
I noticed that not all of them are from the wall. So I was just wondering
on some of those locations. Anyways keep up the article I look forward
to it every Monday. Take it easy man.
for the kind words Benjamin. But I can't tell you where the other good
surf spots are...Good Lord, that flies in the face of our Local Surf
laws. I would risk being chastised, maybe even tarred and feathered,
and then be cast away as a spy. The horror.
You see my friend Benjamin...Surfing is all about Adventure. The thrill
of discovery. The Ocean is a vast expanse of beaches, points, and reefs.
Go out and discover it on your own. You will be a better man for having
for your website - I just stumbled across it yesterday and it
is a great tribute to surfing in New England. I recently moved out to
Connecticut from Redondo Beach, CA and have spent the last few years
exploring breaks in Rhode Island and Mass. I found a clip form
Groovemasters but I can't seem to find the DVD so I can buy it; can
you please point me in the right direction as I would love to pick
Thanks Sam. All my movies are available through
two sources. My other site Surf Free Or Die
or thru Cinnamon Rainbows. www.cinnamonrainbows.com
Is there surf in CT? If you find any any send me a pic or two.
I am convinced of a few things now...
There are always empty lineups, I never want to hear the word hurricane
again, and I love Nor'easters more than a good sandwich.
Heres to the fall.
I hear that...I just wrote my weekly column
all about the Nor'easter.
October 16, -2009
Is a 3-2 with 3mm gloves and booties appropriate for this time of year
or do I need to start putting on some heavier rubber? Unfortunately
I have to go to Baltimore today and tomorrow but hope to get in the
water on Sunday or Monday.
Didn't you ask this same question last year?
Yes, it's time for the 4/3 with a hood.
"Jason from Boston" here... I just wanted to say that I truly
enjoyed seeing your gallery of water photography this week, and thanks
for posting the two pics of me sliding through your "studio."
While it is always great to see action shots of oneself, I concur with
you that the Mon evening session was all about the soft fading light
and the clean empty LB waves rolling in at the Wall. As an assistant
chemistry Professor at B.C. trying to make tenure, my life is mostly
hard work but surfing NE is the respite. The photos are great, allowing
me to commit that session to memory and once archived, revisit at any
time. Thanks again, and sorry for not recognizing you with the hooded
Glad you liked the water shots. The color that night was surreal. I
didn't recognize myself in my hooded 4/3 when I saw the pic. See you
October 13, 2009
Ross at C.R. told me my picture was among your Pic of the Week photos,
so I looked. . . and sure enough, there it was. Thanks. I got out there
a little too high-tide'ish because of work, but it was fun that day.
Looks like it was better earlier.
I commend your pointing out blatant drop-ins. A couple of weeks ago
I was coming down the line on a waist+ wave when a guy on a shortboard
began paddling on the shoulder. I yelled at him that I was coming down.
He looked right at me, and kept on paddling. When he caught the wave
I had to immediately straighten out, which shows you how close we were.
Now, if he had been a beginner I might have forgiven him. But he was
a decent surfer (from south of the border, I'm guessing). Afterwards,
when we were paddling out parallel to one another, I decided I couldn't
let it go--especially when I saw him pull up beside his friend and began
talking about what had happened with a smile on his face. I paddled
over and told him that I never would have dropped in on him in similar
circumstances, especially when I had looked over and seen him coming.
He said, "My bad," as though that excused all. I repeated
my remark, letting him know that I didn't take it lightly, and paddled
away. He didn't do it again the rest of the session, but I have his
face in my memory bank for the future.
Thanks again for all you do for surfing and the ocean.
P.S. One of the neat things about your Pic of the Weeks is that I'm
able to identify surfers that I always see in the water and talk to.
For instance, Tim O'Shea in the October 5 grouping. We also wave and
acknowledge one another out there, but until now I've never known his
The Blatant Drop In has been a popular feature. I just hope I haven't
created a monster with it. Although, it seems like it's been few and
far between to actually catch these culprits in the act. My fear is
they see me and pay attention to what they are doing. Good for the surfers
but bad for me and my readers who get a kick out it every week.
Oh well damned if I do and damned if I don't.
happy to hear that my weekly has helped your socialization of surfing
with familiar faces.
That's Lynn Bailey! She claims to be a Hampton local, (but really a
Mass. transplant) and didn't like 'unknown'... It really made her day
to see a good pic on your site, sort of a milestone for a surfer!!
I'm getting the pic from Ed. Thanks for the great site.
'm happy to hear that pic made her day. Also happy to hear that you
purchased a photo from Ed. Thanks for the kudos and Keep surfing!
Ralph- Both you and Ed caught me on camera during the Monday swell on
Sept 28th. Funny thing is that I was expecting a dying swell so I only
grabbed my single fin noserider that day. I was pleasantly surprised
to see the size and hollow sections. I made the best of the board selection
and really enjoyed the session.
and Ed must have been standing together as he caught the still below
while you grabbed the video of the same wave. I have already been in
contact with Ed and have already purchased the picture off SmugMug.
there any chance I can get a copy of the "Big Mo" video that
you took? I am the unknown longboarder (yellow board) at 2:24, slow
motion at 2:37 and again at 3:21. Having young kids these photos and
video help explain why I disappear from time to time. I would be willing
to cover any costs associated with the request, just let me know.
great solo on Jet Stream!
it's been a never ending stream of swells. As far as getting the video
clips, I don't really sell individual clips, but I might in the future.
The good news is that clip will be in the NEW Surf Free Or Die Movie
that will be out Thanksgiving week. Thank you for the guitar nod we're
playing at Rudi's in Portsmouth Oct 22-09.
I want to thank you for showing me the error of my ways in the Blatant
Drop-in sequence this week. I thought the circumstances were a little
different at the time, but the camera doesn't lie. The main thing I
learned (not the only thing) is something I already know, that the last
wave of the session is no excuse for bad behavior. If I am not mistaken
I was overcome by the same sin on that wave last summer. I apologize
for that, and I ask you to forgive me. I wish I had apologized sooner.
I thought the name-calling was a little hurtful, but I accept that as
part of the sentence for my guilt. I choose to be your friend, and not
your enemy, if you will give me a second chance.
I choose to accept your apology and sentence you to 20 hours of community
service with the local Surf Rider Foundation. I expect to see you at
the next Beach Clean up. Dismissed.
All kidding aside. Just look both ways before taking off. Pretty simple.
October 6, 2009
Hey Ralph, great stuff in Pic of the Week this week....you know it's
not summer when the waves are unpopulated, not swarming...
Did you get over to Linky's at around 11-1 that Monday 9/28? It was
brilliant. Only about 3 of us for at least an hour...clean, LONG rights
that jacked higher as the tide dropped (chest/head high with a few bigger).
What a day.
another Ralph (not many of us around)
doubt that was a fun day all around. And tolerable crowds. Gotta love
Fall. Maybe we should start a "My Name Is Ralph" club.
I tried my hardest not to surf today, I'm sick as hell... but if I had
to hear one more person tell me how fun it was I was going to hang myself.
2 of the best waves I have ever had at the wall today... the cover up
will be worth the pneumonia. Heres a few after the waves went small
and the clouds got cool.
at you. Sick as a dog and getting two great waves and unreal photos.
to see some pics of me from last Monday. That was a blast. I haven't
lived here that long but that was the best I've seen the Wall.
the unknown in your pics #117, 120,121 and probably 112. Also Ed's #10
for posting these! See you out there again soon I hope.
you got to see yourself. Those were really nice waves. You were surfing
HUGE swell today! Aaron Cormican is still in town, as is Ausi Chippa
Wilson, and local pro Josh Hoyer joined the show too. Attached are
pictures from the day. Tomorrow could be even bigger!
and chunky 54th Street. Those guys just throw caution to the wind huh?
October 2, 2009
Lots and lots of pictures over the past week. But wanted to give you
heads up on a session in particular: I'm sizing some photos of Gorkin
a session out here yesterday with the Lost film crew! Lost is interested
in a couple of the photos too! I should have them out to you in the
this stuff is insane! Keep em coming! We love that west coast crazy
October 2, 2009
My Nephew Jon lost his daughter in the tsunami in Samoa. Check out the
email below......you can feel the density of this event.
While this is a crushing blow to his family (and the entire Chew family)
- it is just one more degree of how we are all related on earth.
Terence and I spent time there and the camp at Salani which is now wiped
off the face of the earth. The camp management sounded the alarm and
virtually saved the entire village along with the surfers at the camp.
My memories, beyond the surf were of a culture still grounded in tradition,
kids singing in dug out canoes Samoan songs, everybody living in open
Fale houses with gardens around them, people that loved the Samoan way
of life. Just a beautiful place that is now so sad.
our thoughts and prayers are with you and your family. Be strong brother.
We will all be together again in a better world.
October 1, 2009
Was in cabo for 5 days with Sanuk guys, Wingnut and PT.
Here's some pics.
I'll send more.
Watched Pats on Satellite.....
like you scored (again). Go Patriots.
My apologies for being hard to reach this week. Between faulty phones
and my computer crashing things have been a bit rocky. I just recieved
my new computer and of course loaded photoshop up immediately... so
I could start my images from Monday's swell.
Here's a few moments from this week. I can't be thankful enough for
fall to be here.
worries...how the hell did we get by without computers and cellphones
for so long? These pics are great. Thanks. I've said it a million times...Fall
is my favorite time of year.
Ralph - Thanks for the kudos! I really liked that wave.
on Brian Nevis - you are absolutely, positively correct! I think he
is the best surf photographer out there. In fact, as a working pro for
10 years in a previous life, I came across a copy of Surfer's Journal
where Brian was featured in a surf profile of Ireland. The work was
so staggeringly beautiful that it inspired me to see things in a different
way, and I have been behind a lens since I was 8 years old. I love his
work, flat simple.
love the shot of my bud Tim O'Shea on the pink nose of his Donald Takayama!
One of the things I hate about being a surfer AND a surf photog is that
I do not have ONE photo of ME surfing! I guess those are the breaks!
love how you have restructured your blog & page. Very cool!
you are well,
Thanks Bob...your empty wave shot of Hurricane Bob was my favorite empty
wave shot of the whole BILL swell. As far as Nevins goes...well, he's
in a league of his own.
I appreciate the pics and I always look forward to reading your blog
on Sundays. Keep up the great work. Hope to see you around now that
the crowds have thinned!
Scott...and thinned they have.
I know you are too busy for idle talk but how are you? after all remember
now 20 years ago at this time of year when I met you Jacko introduced
us and told me you were not taking applications for new friends. (glad
you ended finally giving me a shot). Good column this week. The reason
I am writing you is to thank you . I used some of your columns this
week(with a bit of filtering) to teach lessons on using voice in your
writing. You are an excellent model of that lots of emotion pride excitement
ETC. You have a gift and you have fine tuned your craft I appreciate
that and so did the kids!
hope all is well.
20 years ago, the quota was filled for new friends. But then we had
a few openings. Glad to have been able fit you in. Don't abuse that
position. But whoa...Wait...you're teaching the kids at your school,
using my weekly babble? Are their parents aware of this? Do you actaully
have a degree in teaching? I'm kidding...thanks man.
P.S. Those kids better not take up surfing!