This is your page. In other words, simply click on the link below to send me an email, or short story. Tell me what's on your mind. Try not to be so hurtful. Just keep in mind, that any email, and or letter I receive, could be posted on this page. But keep this in mind as well, I will answer most with a short reply. And don't worry. I will NOT post your email address, but I will post part of your name. After all, that's only fair. However, if you really want to remain anonymous, I'll grant your request. Send me your thoughts, praises, complaints or well wishes...I'd be happy to hear from you.
Click here- Dropping In On Ralph! Be sure to leave your name and State. Thanks.

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JULY 2009

July 27, 2009


Lumpy Rutherford now has a surf spot? I hurt myself laughing at that one, can’t wait to surf at “Eddie Haskells” Great Surf Art column, you know I am also a huge fan of Rick Griffin, was great seeing that Stoner photo of him, a classic.

Most of the other art blew me away also, a great year. That Corey Howard tube painting and your empty wave paintings are the stuff surf dreams are made of.

The ‘surf visitor’ and the drop in cartoons were really cool, this should be a regular series (like you don’t have enough to do already).

Some of that West Coast stuff is downright scary.

Hope to see you at Lumpy’s soon.


Lumpy was such a tool on the Beave...I can't wait to surf and shoot Eddie's.
Thanks for all the props. The talent of local and national surf artists is truly inspiring. And what can we say about Griffin? He was, and always will be, the BEST. Rest in Peace Murphy.


July 27, 2009

Hi Ralph

It was a great (Hawaii) trip and even better to get head+ waves when we got home....unreal!!

Great cloumn this week. WOW...the wedge is NUTS!!! It blows my mind how many people have artistic talent...I couldn't even paint a stick figure!

My buddy got some pics from this recent swell....I will send them to you this week. See you in the water soon, or shooting soon!

Stick figures? I love stick figures! Next year you can submit some. Thanks for the props for all the talented Artists. They are something special for sure. I should do this twice a year. See you around the campus.


July 27, 2009

Hey Ralph

Love your pen and ink drawings! Max's is awesome too!.

Nice work with the digital retouch of your Greg Noll painting (has he seen it yet?). FYI: The other painting you have their (with "unknown" as artist) of Greg on "the wave" is by Ken Auster. Good painter. Check him out (more of his work) on Club of the Waves:

Regarding the Greg Noll painting....I did a small study a while ago of that image/day (based on others version of it and the description of the day / accounts from documentaries). Got to blow it up large scale one of these days. Maybe I'll do/submit for next summers Ralph Surf Art.

Nice paintings this year! Where was the wood work from your friend Eric though? His stuff is really cool.


Thanks Hannah. But I have to say...lots of people commented on your work and Sam's too. They want to see more. So if you have any more local stuff we'll put it on the Artist page. Thanks again for your contributions. I think Eric was still working on some new pieces and didn't finish them by deadline.


July 26, 2009

Great to hear, and thanks! I totally can relate to the no sleep...I've
been pulling close to 20 hour days all week shooting, editing, and
uploading. Totally worth it, though. And I'm psyched to help bring good
coverage of an epic event like this to the NE crowd.

I'd been doing this part time for a couple years (minus a gap between when
I first met you at an ESA event and moving to CA), but I'm starting to try
and make this now a full time, paying gig. So while any/all exposure is
great, in this I'm just happy to help contribute to the NE scene. Once a
New Englander always one!


It's hard to shake the New England bloodline...we're looking forward to more Insane West Coast action. Keep em coming!


July 25, 2009

Just wanted to thank you again for posting images and taking so very many
from this week at the Open! I don;t know if you've checked out surfer's
website recently, but the published 3 of the photos I sent you from
yesterday's big swell at the Wedge. (I've included a link below). I've
also sent them some of the ones I just sent you from today as well.


Very cool! Congrats...Keep up the good work!


July 25, 2009

The Wedge was going off again today! Legend Tom Curren put on a show for
everyone, as did Analog team riders Benj Weatherley (white board w/ yellow
nose) and Nathan Fletcher (green board) as they were out filming for a new
project. The images are also meta-date tagged with their names on the
correct images.
The stand up paddle boarder in the images from the previous day was back,
as were the Newport Beach lifeguards who pulled many a stuck/stunned
surfers out of the frothing impact zone.

The lifeguards had an increased presence and heightened alert after the
tragic death of a bodyboarder yesterday who got stuck and thrashed against
the rocks on the jetty. Very unfortunate. No word yet as to if/when a
paddle out will be organized for him.

I'll hopefully have photos from yesterday at the open sent out shortly,
and though it will be past the deadline will get you images of the final
day at the Open tomorrow after the finals.


These shots are INSANE! SUP'b at the Wedge!!!???Huh? What the hell?
Too bad about the BB losing his life. But they all must know the consequences out there. It's a wonder more people are not killed at the Wedge.
Aside from that, these have been very impressive and we are all so stoked to get a first hand and close up look of all the action.

Keep shooting and keep surfing!


July 23, 2009

I still energetically paint but don’t show my art often as of late. The transition from living in Europe to the USA to Panama, and the focus on completing the resort in Panama has been all consuming.

My influences are grounded in NC Wyeth and Maxfield Parrish, and this led to an interest in Bill Ogden’s surf art of the 70’s. Lately, I have been loosening up my style through my interest in the New Hope School of painting that comes from my family’s ties to Bucks County Pennsylvania. This influence can be seen in my painting of the Salani Lagoon. I am currently working on a collection of New Hampshire paintings that will use some of this style, as well as the tighter glazed oil techniques that are my foundation.

I still sell my art and interested parties can reach me at, or 603 682 4442……….yes, I still have a New Hampshire number.

Best to you and your family Ralph,


I'm so stoked that you are still creating amazing works of art. And I'm so impressed that you are going forward with your Tropical Dream Surf Camp.
Thanks for sharing your art with us. Keep painting and keep surfing!


July 21, 2009

We will be at the paddle out.

Funny how life has a way of shaking things up.

Ralph, I haven't been in the water since the day my daughter, Grace, was
born. Great swell, fun day. As I was walking out of the water I knew it
was the last time I'd be out for a while. The Dynamic of my life with
Kelly, the Kids and my business were just not conspiring well. Surfing
was what got shuffled aside. Now that the business is gone, I've been
working with a bike company and riding tons. I love the flow and
movement but it's just not the same. Liam looked at me the other day and
said, "Let's surf dad..." Done.

Buck is always a source of stoke for me and I really hope I can live up
to it for him. For Molly. For my kids. I miss it.


Surfing is one of those things that stay with you forever. It can lie dormant for a spell, but all it takes is one slight awakening and it comes back. Your son was that spark. I'm sure Buck and family appreciate your new found stoke.
Keep's good for ypu.


July 20, 2009


Well, well, well, summer has finally arrived and with it some fairly decent
swell. We are quite fortunate to have all these little waves each week.
Keeps us fresh and smilin'.
Hey, I must have just missed you on Friday, July 13th at the wall. Jack & I
pulled an early "DP" and had some fun from 5:30AM-7:30. Waves were fun and
not much of a crowd to speak of.

Anyways, I wanted to compliment you on the weekly "drop-In" violations....
A picture is like 1,000 words and any of these so called, "violaters" get
their respective "mugs' in your weekly, by basically, being a real Kook and
dirt bag.
Love it.

I just wish that you were around last night at the "Pipes"....
As you know, the surf was fairly small, but really glassy and fun. The tide
was filling in and the sand bars were giving us some sets about every 5-8
I'm riding my 5'8" fishcuit and with no one going for the wave, I grab this
sweet, waist high left and just find the slot and tuck in.....just speeding
down the line, trying to stay ahead of the curl and hoping to get a
Out of nowhere, this guy wearing the 4/3 w/booties, big hybrid tuflite, just
drops in on me from who knows where and aims straight ahead.....
(I ain't gonna budge here...)

So, I give a shout, to alert the "kook" that I'm staying on course...And of
course, he hears me and then just turns right into my path for the "head
on"collision, and then jumps off his board. Just ditches it...
I'm thinking, 4 broken fins and a good ding minimum......
At the last second, I just try to get some air under my board to better
reduce board damage, but when I make this last act of desperation, his leash
winds around my f-ing neck, and his board comes swinging around like a big
blade..... No shit...... I was "hog tied" and that pretty much ended my
Well, let's just say that we had a little discussion and he appeared to be
completely un aware of any surf etiquette whatsoever.....
All he said was, "I just wanted to catch a wave and was going straight
Enough said....

Luckily, I was able to come out of the little crash completely unschathed.
Not a ding, or even a burr on the fins...
It would have made a great video for your weekly with the whole leash
strangulation and board whipping...
I love summertime, and usually able to avoid the crowded line-ups and crazy
people. However, you never know when you are going to be a victim of the
"summertime drop-in".

Hope to see you soon. And, as always, thanks for keeping us up to speed with
the great reporting and photos...


I wish I could of caught that on film? Any chance you could do a re-creation for the many fans of the BLATANT DROP-IN of the Week series? Leash wrapped around your neck sounded nuts. But it sounds like you dodged a bullet as far as dings. I don't think the DROP IN perps are dirt bags...I just think the majority of them are just plain uneducated. There are however, several of those who surf around the world and are "good surfers who should no better", who constantly drop in on people, and do it with complete disregard for their fellow surfers. They are selfish, arrogant, self serving bullies. The rest are just clueless.

But thank god for all of them...other wise I wouldn't have this funny weekly segment. Keep surfing!


July 20, 2009


Thanks, Ralph, I’m sorry to hear about the Seal. You and I can only imagine the pain of losing a child. It was devastating to come back and hear that Molly has lost her fight with cancer. I never met her, but everything I’ve learned from those who did would indicate that she was a really special person, and its infinitely sad to lose her.

As for my getup, it’s pretty simple. The basic deal is a full length rashguard which provides me protection from the sun. Ever since the first week I spent out there with Johnny & Jay, J.T. & Mike Rosa, my calves burned to a boiled lobster – like state within a few days, and originally I had to cut the wrists off a long sleeve rashguard and pull it over my legs to keep surfing. Over the years I’ve tried long underwear & all sorts of stuff, but then I got turned on to the fact that O’Neil makes the full suit. It also prevents dozens of little reef cuts, and there are also lots of little stingy things in the water when its glassy, and it helps for all that. Then I put a sleevless spring suit over that, and that’s more for reef protection than anything else, although there are some early mornings when the trades are blowing that can get sort of cool. 2 mil booties, of course, or I’d be missing most of my toes, and then my DaKine surf hat with the rear neck flap. This year I upgraded to the new model, which I thought looked pretty snappy, especially compared to the old DaKine hat which made me look like a Foreign Legionaire. I was complaining to one of my friends out there that I had been unable to find a hat with antlers, which I thought would totally complete the package. Then I’ve got my webs, for making sure I scratch into those waves before I get hung up on top and launched. Those things are considered lame and very gay. (“not that there’s anything wrong with that”).

But my attitude is “Hey, I’m 60, I’m riding Cloudbreak, I get to look as ridiculous as I want.”

The goofy footer doing a full rail stylish cutback is a boatman named Lono, from the Big Island, long time boatman whom I’ve gotten to know pretty well. There is a shot or two, I seem to remember of Shane Dorian, who is fairly easy to spot, with his KS hairdo. The ones numbered …119, 164, 166 and 169 are all of Cloudbreak, and ..175, 176 are of perfect overhead Restaurants.

Thanks again, and by the way, within 20 minutes of getting home from Fiji 11 hr plane trip, 8 hr layover at LAX, 5 hr plane trip to BOS, one hour bus trip to Newburyport, no sleep, feeling cranky, I’m on the RPOTW checking out the action I’ve missed while I was away.

Keep it up!


Well we've had surf every week while you were gone. But nothing the likes of what you got. And I would be lthe last person to question why you would surf Tavi at age 60...but that get up? It made me do the proverbial second look. It just looks ...oh what's the word? Funky? Freaky? Bizarre? Uncomfortable? I guess all of the above. But I like your own take the best..."Ridiculous". But like you're 60 surfing Cloudbreak. Who cares how you look.

And we all feel the sadness and pain of Molly's passing. There's just no other worrds to convey, other than she was a special little girl ,from a special surf family, who lived in our special surf community. We all loved her.

Keep charging my 60 yr old Fashion King who still rips!


July 19, 2009

I nearly scored the perfect trip at Tavarua this year. Only 3 days of
unsurfable conditions, out of fourteen, and the rest varied from
perfect chest to overhead up to 2-3 X overhead. Nothing scary, just
challenging. Shane Dorian was there, and he can surf the trunks off
just about anybody! I’ve included a shot of Shane and a shot of Lono,
a boatman from the Big Island. The rest are of me having the time of
my life!


Yes I got them. I just got back in my office from doing a service for a NAVY SEAL (surfer) who was killed in Afghanistan...I'll put them up next week. Great shots! But you're gonna need to explain to me just what the hell that get-up is all about you're wearing.


July 19, 2009

Anytime I get photos of vets/war, etc, I think of you. I try not to send useless tag-alongs to you. Certain ones, I can't pass up on though.
The passing of Molly struck me very hard (a lot more than I thought it would). After reading Buck's posting I thought about my children and how I would be if such an event occurred. Honestly, I don't know how I would do it, or if I could. I told him he is a much stronger man than I am, and he gives me inspiration.
Molly was/is an angel brought here for her short time to bring a community together. She has shown us all how to face adversity without giving in. Buck stated they were looking to find reason in her passing. You can't find reason for that, what you can do is see what it does/do for those left living. She is in a better place now, we are the ones left wondering. I truly feel she is the cement that holds this very special community together.
Thank you Ralph, and don't be shocked if the stash makes a return appearance!
Dr. B

Dr B :

Well said. She is a special little Angel. And the Rowlees are a special family and this little Surf community of ours is equally special.
Keep Surfing!


July 19, 2009


Although I now live down in Palm Beach County, FL, I find your weekly comments and photos are a great way to keep in touch with the NH/ME surf happenings. Many of my buddies live and surf in the area and of course I like to talk it up when I have sunny, warm waves down here in the winter. On the flip side, I have I have heard quite the season of stories that came from up north this past year and into early summer (a time we go flat!!!!!) I was saddened to hear of the tragedy that has happened to the Rowlees. I had the chance to have met Buck and Meg through my ex wife (Claudia). I would ask that you please send my condolences via this email if it is possible. I hate to hear bad things happen to such good people. Although I did not know Buck well, I do know that he was one of the most genuine people you can surround yourself with. Stay strong and I will sure to think of Molly and the Rowlees on the day of the paddle out down here in Florida. I have attached a winter swell pic from my new beach down here in FL. We have had a 2 month wave drought in S. FL........needless to say, I have had to resort to pulling up old pics to remember what overhead is.

Keep up the stoke....your post is something I look forward to every week.

Palm Beach Gardens, FL


It's always good to heare from transplants like yourself. And it's amazing how many people just like you have contacted me to say the same thing. So thank you for that. I'm happy to be able to provide you with a transparent window of our small surf community. And I'm stoked that you tune in every week with the other tens of thousands. The internet blows my mind.

I'll pass on the condlences to Buck and Meg. Sorry to hear you guys are in a Flat spell. We are still getting surf! Unreal. 23 weeks as of today.
Keep Surfing!


July 17, 2009

Ralph - I have not been able to access your blog for a while because it is blocked by our servers (you must be on the radical list!). At any rate, I have been out of circulation for a while because of work, and when I'm not working I seek out a quiet place to get some waves. It has been excruciatingly painful to see what Buck, Meg and Keiran have been going through since Molly's diagnosis in February, and now the reality has set in. One of the hardest things I do in my job is to visit children's hospitals because many of them are our customers. You go into these institutions (The Hospital for Sick Children in Toronto comes to mind) and you see all of these beautiful kids going through so much hell… it really is heartbreaking.

Anyway, just wanted to comment on your cover this week… a beautiful shot by Brian Nevins (one of the truly unappreciated photographers out there). Says it all.

I promise to dust off the 600MM in the weeks to come and get some pixels to you (can't say celluloid anymore… in fact, I can't even buy Kodachrome anymore! Man, I'm getting OLD!).

Best regards,



It's hard to understand, the reasoning behind children getting sick. I don't get it. All the real assholes in this world living to be well into their golden years and small children getting sick and leaving before their time. Why is that? I don't get it. But what I do get is the positive vibe that Buck and Meg have, I do understand that. So I guess it all works out in the end.

And yes that Nevins pic was gteat. So if that's your motivation, get out that 600 and start shooting. And oh yea...Keep Surfing!


July 14, 2009


I was very stoked to find your website, and thankful for all the photos, and especially thankful for your fresh perspective.

My son is a very stoked 10 year old grommet, Thomas Haut, who was fortunate enough to participate in the May 30th ESA event. I'm looking forward to showing him your site. A photo of him is attached from our session yesterday at The Wall that I took using my new Olympus underwater camera. There was a guy on the beach with a lens and he asked me, "Is that Ralph? I hope so!"

You took a photo of me from the May 30th contest, which I got to share with my brother, who taught me how to surf about 40 years ago. It's really cool to see my brother, who had forgotten about surfing for about 30 years, finally get back into it. He surfs the North Jetty (my old homebreak from 30 plus years ago) of the St. Johns River down in Jacksonville, FL. And he is like a little kid again, with surf fever gone amuck.

Anyway, getting off track. Keep it coming, and I hope we cross paths sometime soon.

Tom Haut


Thanks for the good words. I'm happy that your family is stoked on the lifestyle. It is a good way to spend time with your loved ones. Teaching them the unwritten rules of surfing, as opposed to those who teach their kids all their own bad habits, and it just ruins it for everyone. Be positive, keep smiling, share a wave get a wave. Keep Surfing!


July 13, 2009

Thanks so much for the column this week nice job well written
your are a pillar in this community and I appreciate you for that!



Thanks brother. We all loved that little girl. She will be missed by all. And I will personally make sure that we never stop talking about her. Like I've write every week...Surfing Heals All Wounds.


July 13, 2009


Good job in tough times, as always. Just wanted to throw this out, you may have thought it, but if you need some words, the first stanza of Little Wing sure seems as appropriate as anything that could be said. I saw Quinn Sullivan (10 year old blues prodigy) do it Saturday night and I cried through it knowing Molly was near that door.

With tears,



Believe it or not, I've dedicated that tune to Molly a few times this year. I play it all the time. It is my favorite Hendrix/Stevie Ray song. It does remind me of Molly too. Thanks and remember...Surfing Heals All Wounds.


July 13, 2009

I just read your post...It is sooooo very saddening to hear about little miss Molly; I couldn't help keep the tears from my eyes. I didn't know her or her dad well, but was able to randomly and breifly meet them one day in the Children's Hosptial garage weeks back. Her dad looked sad, but Molly looked VERY happy, especially since she just had McDonalds!! That was the one time I was able to meet Molly, and I can honestly say she brought joy to my day.

I pray that god brings her family and friends the strength and courage to get though this....may Molly RIP

See you in the water Ralph



She was special. No doubt about it. Surfing Heals All Wounds.


July 13, 2009


I woke up this morning about 5:15 AM and went to checkout the surf cam....Then your newsletter. I was so sad (and shocked b/c I thought she had the treatable lymphoma) to see the news about your friend's little girl "little Miss Molly". It is incredibly sad news.

I had been thinking of Molly/her family off and on lately due to having just finished and delivered the painting I donated for the Fundraiser for her, - as well as, due to having been commissioned recently to do a portrait of a little boy who passed away from Lymphoma last spring...Every time I sat down to work on it - it made me think of Molly and her family and just hoped she was doing well/in remission. Just such sad news this morning.

Regarding your calling everyone to pray for Molly - yet she wasn't able to make it in the end: I know it is really tough when all the praying just doesn't work....I just think that sometimes some of the stuff we pray for is just out of our control and God's control too (like cancer...or war started by some nut case). My whole feeling on this is (my way of viewing God).... is I don't believe that God takes the ones we love from us as some people like to say (like "God just wanted him up there with him"). I just don't believe that. I just believe some shitty disease is what took them....or some other tragedy....that God couldn't stop. But what I do believe is that God inspired us to pray because it helps us deal with the hard stuff (it helps us keep hope and spread it to others when they need it). To me that is how the big guy answers those tough prayers for us that he has no control over (like cancer...or war....). He inspires us to help each other out during the tough times.

Ralph - you have done that (and I know will keep doing that) for Molly and her family, as well as so many others. Keep at it.

Take care and see you out there at the line up one of these days.



The way I seeit, praying and positive thinking can't hurt. It may not help or cure, but it can't hurt. Molly was just so damn special. Surfing Heals All Wounds.



July 10, 2009

Hey I am in china right now, super heavy here. Lots of time in mainland doing product development, wow. I love my country, is all I am going to say. hope the 4th zoo has cleared, your site keeps me sane in weird parts of the world, and while I will never search for the glory BS of having my shots on your page again,
I will forever remember and be stoked that I made it on there, thanks so much.

all the best my man. be well.

Josh WalkerMarketing/Team Manager


China huh? Any surf in China? Near Hong Kong maybe? I know Taiwan has
surf. How close are you to Taiwan? From the Great Wall of China to the
Great Wall of Hampton. Keep surfing and watch your back.


July 8, 2009

Subject: Re: RPOTW

you guys are killing us up there Ralph.... we haven't had anything OVER waist-high in 20 weeks!

Anyways, thanks for the good words, we've got a good plug to RPOTW in this upcoming isuse's blahs, along with the mention of Mike Moran and Brian Nevin's skydiving trip, brought to our attention by the finest surf blogger in all the northeast!

Keep up your own good work Ralph, reading your site is a weekly tradition for us now!

Associate Editor, Eastern Surf Magazine


Man I was not trying to rub it in...but rather share the love we've been getting. OK I was. Ha! Living through these hellish winters sometimes has a pay off. This is one of them. Getting good surf in the Summer. And Thanks for good words too. You guys have been rocking the East Coast forever and your new site is Killer! You keep up the great work!
Keep Surfing!


July 8, 2009

Ralph -

Hey...first time writer, long time reader. Enjoy your take on life, pics and general stoke.

Hoped someone would have gotten some pics of Kai Nichols out on a longboard Saturday AM. Head high for him and absolutely fearless. A couple times he would nose ride right into the close-out section of the waves. Incredible to watch.

What a great surf family.


Matt -New Hampshire


Thanks for the nod. And Yes, Kai is a hard charger. I don't know many 9yr olds who surf right through the winter, along with his dad and sisters. Ed O'Connell and I were just saying, that shooting Kai makes the waves look bigger and better than what they really are.
The Nichols are part of a large community of Surf Families in the area.
Keep Surfing!


July 7, 2009

I read the whole (Bio) thing. I think you got it right. What a life.
Maybe I should do mine.
Nice rain.

Jeff -Massachusetts


Thanks, hard to believe we've seen all that we've seen in the 40 plus years we've been doing this. Wish some of those guys had lived long enough to see where Surfing is today. Maybe they do know...

Keep Surfing!

P.S. What rain?

July 7, 2009


Hey, liked the story of your life on your Ralphs Pics page........Nice history....

Chip -Pennsylvania


Thanks, I've been around the block a few times. I've been fortunate enough to have seen and witness a lot of things in Surfing. I hope to see a few more, before I finally kick out for good.
Keep Surfing!


July 6, 2009

Hey Ralph,
I'd just like to thank you for everything you do for the surfing community. It's awesome to see all the people you've been surfing with at every big swell and who's been ripping it the hardest. I'd like to thank you for your continued harping on beginners learning the rules to surfing. I'm sure the rules and tips page will help avoid some extremely heated situations in the future.
I can't tell you how stoked i was to finally get a shot of me up on the wall. Every week ive been looking to get a picture up there. My friends and I have had a competition on who can get on Ralph's pic of the week for the past year and a half. Finally, me and one of my friends made it up on the same day. Keep up the good work and bringing the cementland surfing community that much closer each time you post all the fundraisers and pictures. I'm praying ill see you at the wall soon (AKA the 21st week of surf soon.)
See you in the water,
Jarrett. M.
P.S. im the one in the barrel and Doug. R is the one with half his wetsuit off


Thanks for the kind words. I don't know how many dings I will save with the RULES & TIPS page but, it can't hurt posting them. I'm glad you are that stoked to get your mug on my weekly. Bet you're glad it wasn't the DROP-In segment. However, it was Ed O'Connell who took the shots. Although, I think I shot Doug too. Regardless, the beauty of this column is, you actually stand a chance to to get posted, because we shoot almost everyone. You don't have to be a pro to get posted on RPOTW . But you need to know how to surf. I mean this isn't Sesame Street. You've got to still earn it.
Keep Surfing!


P.S. We may see 21 weeks and we may not...either way, we can't really complain. Except this damn rain is getting a little tired.

July 5, 2009

Dear Ralph:

Recently I have been looking at your pictures because I had been surfing at the wall on some of the featured days. I guess I was hoping to see a nice shot of myself (LOL) Well I found a couple...I'm the guy who is accused of "blatantly" dropping in on July 3rd. I want you to know, that I thought I had looked before I dropped in, but I never saw him. I was totally surprised when our rails bumped (no dings) and that's why I fell off. As soon as I surfaced I apologized profusely. he said "no problems" "ancient history" which made me feel a little better, but the rest of my session was kind of ruined because I was mentally kicking myself for not having been more careful.

New Hampshire


You know the old saying..."If you can't do the time-don't do the crime "
I am glad that the victim accepted your apologies. Because you sound sincere in your letter. As far as NOT seeing the person...well, I like to use the rules I taught my kids when crossing the street. "Look left, look right, and then left again" before going left. And "Look right, look left, and right again" when going right. Keep yer eyes open out there and keep having fun.



July 1, 2009


I have been amused by your photos of various leash transgressions, most of which I’ve been guilty of over the years. Sometimes when I end a session, particularly in the winter, I feel so cold and old and exhausted that the thought of the effort to reach down and undo my leash takes on a degree of difficulty disproportionate to the actual task.

But here is a cautionary tale: While I was in Australia, and lucky enough to be enjoying an overhead swell at Noosa, I soon realized from watching the locals, that at the end of one of these quarter mile rides, that instead of paddling back out (against a pretty strong current too) which took me about 25 minutes the first time I tried, that you just cut back, prone to the beach, and walk back up the beach or the trail to the point, and jump back in. Now the beach is strewn with rocks, and as you approach the point, the sand gives way to rocky ledges, and finally, total rock. Just before you reach the head of the point, there is a rock wall of about 10 feet that you need to scale before you reach the jump off point.

So, I’m doing this the first time, and I work my way along the beach, over the ledges and I finally get to the point where I have to climb this wall, and I’m standing on a boulder with about a 4 ft. drop between me and the wall, but a decent landing point near the base of the ledge where I can easily jump across the short distance to begin to scale it. So I casually jump over to the protruding footholds, and mid air, or course, my leash snags on some part of the rock from which I’ve just jumped. Needless to say, having one’s airborne trajectory altered by a vigorous yank of your board from under your arm, and a simultaneous yank of your leashed leg resulted in a less than satisfactory result. Thankfully my board and I received only minor abrasions, but in mid flight, I instantly realized how bad the situation could have been. If the leash police had been watching, I would have been instantly arrested.

I am now far more diligent about removing my leash upon exit from the water.



As far as being too cold to take your leash off, that in itself should be a warning sign-to take it off. It's when you're cold and numb, that you are the most likely to stumble and fall, or worse, like catch some unsuspecting, innocent bystander and up end them. As far as your, embarrassing Leash Snafu moment in Australia? Well, my only regret is, no one got a photo of it. Sounds like it would of been a hell of a Parting Shot.

Keep Surfing and Pay Attention to the Leash Law.




































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































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