Yesterday
December 1968 on the North Shore of Massachusetts
(Above)
Michael Normand (left) and myself (*note the same board from last week's
shot of my nephew) the winter
of 1968. I remember this day. We had surfed off the main drag in Mass
and had just come out of the water. *Note
the NO leashes. (How can you surf without a leash? Ha!) Plus...We NEVER
wore hoods in those days. Can you
imagine what that would be like? Actually, some of the kids did. I was
not one of them, and neither was Mike.
This was right before I shipped off to the War in Southeast Asia. My life
was about to change forever, and so was Mike's. He and I, along with Jeff
Crawford, Peter Tilton, Jay Wilbur and Bruz Bowden had ourselves a cool
little
Surf Club in the mid to late 60's. We shaped and made our own boards and
traveled all over New England surfing different breaks. When I joined
the Marines, they all wrote to me, and we kept in touch by writing letters.
It was
almost always about surfing. When I came back from the war, Me, Jeff and
Bruz made the First Ever foray into
Nova Scotia. I made a movie about it. I called it the SUMMER of 71. The
club had long since split up. But we all
still surfed. Just not as a group. Jay moved off and became a minister.
Peter was killed in an auto accident in the
late 70's. Bruz got married and still surfs today. I still see him on
occasion at the wall in the Summer. Jeff is still
a hardcore surfer, and he still spends his winters in Hawaii with his
wife JoAnne and son Everest. And Mike,
pictured here above, a goofy footer, who had the coolest stance, developed
a large tumor in his stomach, and
died a short time later. He left behind a wife and two children. Life
is short. Be good and Pass it on.
Photo by my late father Gus Fatello
Today
2007 The St. Valentine's Day Chocolate Swell
(Above)
Kenny Linseman dropping into a very deceiving looking wave on the Day
After The Valentine's Day Storm.
Photo by R. Fatello SFOD
(Above)
Cold, empty and perfect on the Day After The Valentine's Day Storm.
Photo by R. Fatello SFOD
(Above)
Cold and crowded on the Day After The Valentine's Day Storm. Think these
guys are cold?
.
Photo by R. Fatello SFOD
Above)
Cold, empty and perfect? Depends on who you ask. The Day After The Valentine's
Day Storm.
Photo by R. Fatello SFOD
Above)
Looks like it would be better sledding, than surfing.The Day After The
Valentine's Day Storm.
Photo by R. Fatello SFOD
Above)
You can't get there from here. Chocolate brown lines...The Day After The
Valentine's Day Storm.
Photo by R. Fatello SFOD
Above)
Ok so it was good in New Jersey. You can't beat this wave or it's color.
Photo courtesy of Michael Ames
Today
2007 Meanwhile Back on Oahu...
(Above)
Jamie O'Brien pulling into a gaping hole at Pipe.
Photo courtesy of Bernie Baker
(Above)
Jamie O'Brien contorting to slip under this pitching lip. He made it.
Photo courtesy of Bernie Baker
Today
2007 The Phantom And His Henchman Pull off yet another
Nautical Foray Into The Great Central Cal Unknown...
(Above)
Unknown Phantomite slipping into the Phantom's favorite right on the West
Coast.
Photo courtesy of The Phantom
(Above)
Unknown Phantomite picking the last, of what looks like, four different
take-off slots.
Photo courtesy of The Phantom
(Above)
There's Strength in numbers. "Reinforcements arriving on the Portside
sir!"
Photo courtesy of The Phantom
(Above)
Phantom's favorite right, winding and grinding along the scarred cliff
face. If these hills could speak,
imagine the stories they could tell of swells from yesteryear.
Photo courtesy of The Phantom
(Above)
"Alright let's break fer lunch. Then I want you sons of bitches back
out there and ripping! I gotta
send my man Ralph back East the goods!"
Photo courtesy of The Phantom
(Above)
The outside looks good. Photo
courtesy of The Phantom
(Above)
"Get yer ass over there and pick that peak off! Hurry UP!!!!!"
Photo courtesy of The Phantom
(Above)
Oh yea...that's what I'm talking about!
Photo courtesy of The Phantom
Parting
Shot 2007
Jimmy Dunn's Valentine's Day Massacre
Jimmy Dunn is a funny bastard. He's also crazy. I don't care who you are.
This has got to hurt.
Jimmy tells all (in his own words) in the last photo check it out.
Photos courtesy of Jimmy Dunn
Between
headlining shows in the big room on the largest cruise ship in the world,
Jimmy Dunn logged some time on
the flowrider machine on deck 12. The resulting wipe out was so substantial,
the flowrider staff, (including Hampton's
own Kiley Hard) had to reset the pumps because Jimmy's 225lb wipe out
so significantly impeded the flow of h20
that the 1.2 million dollar wave collapsed.
DUNN
1
FAKE WAVE 0
See
the video on jimmy's myspace
www.myspace.com/comedianjimmydunn
Click
On Wave to Go Back to The Top.
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