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October
17th, 2009
34 out of 35 weeks of surfable waves.
There was a time in my life when I would drop everything at the
slightest hint of a Nor'easter blowing up the coast. I
know I am not alone in that statement. Hell every surfer from
the Dirty Jersey Shore to the Pristine Pine Coned
coastline of Nova Scotia can relate to that. It's true.
Just the name alone speaks volumes of where, and what these beasts
are all about. They are our own versions of Tropical Storms
and Hurricanes. I say our version, because no one south
of Jersey get's em. 90% of 'em form off the Jersey
shore and grind their way north to our doorstep. From there,
they continue their journey. Bearing gifts of hellish winds and
high surf well up into the Canadian Maritimes.
Great for us. Bad for boaters and everyone else.
But just the mere mention of an "Easter" and I was in
a tizzy. The anticipation of these ferocious storms would get
my blood pumping. I was usually in a frenzy in preparing for them.
We never had wave cams, or wave modules like you guys have today.
We didn't even have cable, or a weather channel. It was a Marine
Forecast short wave radio, and the local weather. It was hard.
But it was also filled with intense anticipation of things to
come.
And for me, the only place to surf was a reef on the North
Shore. I had surfed it in the 60's before I went off
to war. The whole time I was in Nam I thought about this
spot. It was one of the things that I hung onto to get my ass
back in one piece. I wanted to surf that reef again in a roaring
Nor'easter. I knew there were surfers back home, who had
not gone into the Military, who were undoubtedly holding
court at my favorite spot. And that was another motivating factor.
The thought of one particular individual, getting all those waves,
while I was humping through the boonies, was another reason why
I believe I survived.
But
in spite of what many people think. Me and that Gas Bag were actually
friends at one time. It was after the war and into the mid
70's. We surfed that reef together and tried our best to protect
it from the outside world. It wasn't until I heard him tell some
of the young surfers one day out in the line-up, that he was a
Navy Seal in Nam. From that day forward, I knew what he
really was. A piece of shit. Some day I'm going to be with one
of my REAL Navy Seal friends, and we are going to bump
into this piece of dog manure. That's when I will bring that up.
Hopefully, I will have my camera with me.
That
would make one hell of a YOUTUBE viddy.
But
getting back to Nor'easters. I remember days of surfing
alone in the early 70's at that semi secret spot, with
the wind gusting to 30-40 and upwards of 50 knots!
And I loved it. Staring down those steep, deep wave faces, with
that pelting wind and icy rain in my face, was a right of passage.
I couldn't get enough of that spot. It was at the time, my home
break of sorts. It became known as Shazamland, and I had
become one of the enforcers of the spot. I know I was bad. I'm
sure I made a lot of surfers uncomfortable back in those days.
I was in short, an asshole. But only to those who showed no respect
to the locals, and the break itself. And to those who surfed with
too much aggression.
I had become as intense as the storm itself.
I was committed to protecting this spot at all costs. And I'm
sure I was a bad influence on some of the younger surfers who
came around in the 80's. The Beauchesne brothers.
Jamie and Mark. Those young surfers would watch and listen
to me and think that this is what needed to be done to protect
this break. In some ways it was, in other ways, it was clearly
not the way to go about policing the lineup. I will say that for
a time, it kept the riff raff out. But like all Surf Spots, the
word leaks out and the next thing you know...well, you know.
It ain't a secret anymore.
Besides, what's the line I came up with a few years ago? "If
you can drive by it...it ain't a secret." It's just
that to this day, I can't help but think of that particular break
every time the wind blows out of the Northeast. I am fortunate,
to have surfed it for as along as I did, without the crowds. For
that, I am forever thankful.
I was so into Nor'easters back in the 70's and 80's,
that I named my band The Nor'easters. To this day, I still
think it's one of the best names for a band in these northern
New England States. We were a Blues Rock band. And
the name said it all. In fact, we never officially broke up. And
I know, that those guys in my band are talented enough that should
we ever get called upon to play a gig for some decent money, the
Easters would be able to pull it off with little or no rehearsing.
I mean it's Blues and Rock and Roll.
Our slogan was..."Look who just blew into town...The
Nor'easters".
I used one of the old Nor'easters songs in the video clip
of the week. 95 on 95. I was cracking up listening to the
lyrics. And talk about small worlds. John Carden (yes the
Photographer) used to run a recording studio. BIG CHEESE.
He was the one who recorded us back in the day. No overdubs. It
was all live in the studio.
Live
and raw. Just like a damn Nor'easter.
Now
for some of my weekly Global observances:
Have
you seen the new SURFER? I know earlier in my column, I
was touching upon some of the early days of protecting certain
surf spots, and I may have let on that, there was more than just
yelling at people out there. There were some serious confrontations.
So what's my point? Well in the NEW SURFER there's an article
on how to defend yourself against a sucker punch from an irate
local. Is this what out sport has become? Where we need lessons
on how to defend ourselves against crazy surfers? Whoa. What's
next? How to disarm an assailant with a hand gun or knife? Or
how to conceal a weapon if some surfer pulls a weapon on you?
You guys all thought I was joking a few weeks ago, when I mentioned
Surf Security in the Future, carrying water proof taser guns.
Well, according to SURFER we are not that far from these
dangerous times.
I'm sorry, but if Surfing becomes that urban and that violent
in the future, we are all in trouble.
We all know that there are certain places where Americans
are not welcome anymore. And it has become increasingly violent
in other once safe surf havens. We are targets. We are potential
victims abroad and at times at home. Again, I was not kidding
about the future with Surf Security. I can see it coming. Not
right away. But in the next 10 to twenty years? Who the
hell knows where we will all be. Hell, we might be kneeling in
the streets praying to Allah if the Radical Islamic Extremists
have their say.
But
for the time being...I'm carrying my water proof tazer.
So what did you all think about Balloon Boy last week?
Was that one crazy ass news story or what? Turns out it may be
a well planned hoax. I guess the dad and his family have been
jacked up on "Reality TV" and this might have
been a well hatched plan to get some attention. Well I guess it
got some attention. A
couple of million dollars worth of attention.
You know, my buddy Jack called and said to put the TV on
"There's a kid trapped in a weather Balloon and he's 6,000
feet up in the air." So I did.
The
second I saw the balloon, I was a bit apprehensive to think that
there was a kid in that helium balloon. Turns out, he was not.
He was hiding in the attic, in a box. Apparently waiting the word
from dad to come down when the police found him. Not good. Not
good at all. Look the kid should not be faulted here, if this
was the scheme of a publicity seeking parent. But the dad? He
should be prosecuted. The kid's name? Falcon. Go figure.
The RED SOX season is over. The
SOX blew Game 3 against the ANGELS at FENWAY
last Sunday. They were ahead by 4 runs late in the
game and closer Jon Papelbon could not save them. It was
shocking to say the least. Now the Yankees are marching
to LA to finish off these same Angels. Life can
sure be a kick in the teeth.
The
Patriots
lost to DENVER last week after being ahead 17-7
at the half. What the...??? The Pats looked great in the
first half but could not score in the second half. Tom Brady
missed Randy Moss for a SURE go ahead and don't look
back TD and then missed Wes Welka for another go
ahead score. It was such a frustrating game to watch. And hello...am
I alone when it comes to this BS coin tossing to determine
an Over Time Outcome? Why not let them play out for 10 minutes
each. I mean it's absurd to lose a game over a freaking coin toss!
Today Belichick and company play the winless Titans
at home in the rain. Should we win? Yes, but I'm not going
any further. Just beat them before the game is over.
Remember: If you're losing - Don't Give Up. If You're winning
-Don't let up!
This just In. President Barack Obama wins Heisman
Trophy after watching College Football on TV. Boy, he really
is awesome.
Happy
Birthday Evamarie Urban October 19th!
GO SEE Big Handsome Daddy this Thursday Oct 22-09 at RUDI's In
Portsmouth!
Ex- New England Patriots Tight End and One time local Surfer Russ
Francais accused of embezzling $29,000 from Indoor Football team
in Omaha.
Rest In Peace Charles Capon father of local
Surfer Trevor Capon.
PLEASE HELP THE NH SURFRIDER FOUNDATION.
*Check out the updated DROPPING
IN ON RALPH blog Section.
*Molly Video by Joe Carter has been moved to the Community
Page.
Please
Support ALL The photographers who contribute to
Ralph's Pic Of The Week
every week for the last 6 years.
Remember
my friends...Surfing Heals All Wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.
Ralph
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(Above) The SURF MOTEL in NEW Jersey??? Ha
New Hampshire!
Saturday, October 17th, 2009. Photo By RALPH
Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery and more.
(Above) Markey J into the Frothy Froth.
. Saturday, October 17th, 2009. Photo By Ed O'Connell
Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery and more.
(Above) Better late than never. Unknown
takes the drop for glory.
Saturday, October 17th, 2009. Photo By Ed O'Connell
Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery and more.
(Above) Empty Black and White Peak Saturday, October 17th, 2009.
Photo By Brian Nevins
Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery and more.
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