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28th, 2009 19
Weeks Of Surf.
was kind of a surprise. I mean, seeing those glassy head high lines,
pouring onto the beach, with hardly anybody out, was cause for giddiness.
Mackey V and I were on it before the wind got on it, and the
clouds and fog moved in. It also got nice and glassy later in the day,
and the sun did pop out. So I shot most of the day, and was happy with
the results. Lots of people showing up, and getting their share throughout
the day. Most of them surfed 2 or 3 times. I bit the bullet and shot.
The dilemma of shooting, verses surfing, has dogged me since day one.
Do you shoot first and then surf? Or visa versa. Well, conventional surf journalism wisdom says...always shoot first. And it's true. If you want the best conditions on film. You need to shoot first, and then go surfing. This is something I've had to deal with forever. And please don't for a minute think, that I regret a single day of shooting, I do not. Well, that's not entirely true. There have been times, when the surfers I'm shooting, were not getting the better waves, or just not surfing up to their potential. That's always frustrating.
Even on my level. I'm not shooting pros. I'm shooting good, local surfers. And back when I first started shooting, I was a better surfer than I am now. So, there were times that I thought, I could of caught better waves, and surfed them better, than the guys I was shooting. Not all the time, but occasionally. So I would curse myself, or the subject matter. And that dilemma of not surfing before shooting, would raise it's ugly head. But those days are behind me now. I am not the surfer, I used to be.
I still love to surf.
Speaking of insane, Nevins is a bona fide adrenaline junky. He needs the real stuff to get his engine running. Jumping out of planes on Friday, was way more of a rush, than what we had here. So I was banking on Ed shooting somewhere. Then I went surfing. On my shortboard. Now if you re-call last week, I was bitching that my "Magic Board" had lost it's magic, or that I had lost my own ability to ride a shortboard, and was doomed, or rather regulated, to surf on my longboard. I was somewhat depressed because, I still want to surf on my short board. I mean, let's face it. There's no denying what you can do on a shortboard. And on the other hand, there's no denying what you can do on a longboard.
But I am no Mike Moran on a longboard. Hardly.
And I also know that, my short boarding is marginal at best. But my stoke level goes through the roof ,when I connect the dots. And on my very first wave on Friday morning, I connected the dots. Here, let me walk you through it kids. I paddled out at Ralph's Right's..(Yes named after me) and moved down a bit to the next peak. A solid head high wave popped in over the sandbar, and I swung my Merrick around, and did a one stroke take-off. I dropped in behind the peak, and faded into a semi casual bottom turn, and projected myself up and into the open pocket. The wave opened up enough, to fit my tired old ass into the perfect slot position, and the lip poured over me. I only had to slightly duck under the lip to allow for the complete coverage. This tube was one of those waves, where you could see clearl,y that it was an easy makeable barrel. I came out, with a smile on my face as wide as I've ever had.
alas my friends, I am not done.
Don't get me wrong here. There were times, when I was out there, watching others get waves, and watching the mesmerizing, liquid mechanics, of an empty barrel, go winding by me, that I wished I had my camera with me. There were plenty of those moments. But, they were quickly erased from my brain's hard drive, when I'd catch another set wave, and surf like I was 20 years younger. And it went on for almost 4 hours. Are you kidding me? The only fatigue I got, was getting a couple of painful leg cramps. Other than that, I was in a rhythmic groov,e that I had not felt, since last summer.
It was almost like a freaking Disney movie. You know, some old guy gets his mojo back, and reconnects with his inner youth. It happened to me. So, I apologize for boring you all with this self indulgent surf story dribble, but if it can happen to me. It can happen to you. Don't give up. Surfing is the kind of sport, that you can do for the rest of your life. Yes, you need to stay in shape, and yes you need to still live the lifestyle. But it is possible. Like my nephew QWILL sings in his song"There's nothing that's impossible".
almost afraid to look at the surf forecasts. But...is it possible, we
will have another week of potential rideable surf? Can I get a 20
WEEK Run? My brothers and sisters? Can we get an incredible 20
weeks? I'm thinking we can and will. Keep yer fingers crossed for
for some of my weekly Global observances:
Well what a week. The week of Celebrity losses for sure. They say bad
things happen in threes. Well, in the Entertainment world that is alarmingly
true. First and formeost Ed McMahon passed away at the ripe old
age of 86. Ed McMahon was Johnny Carson's side
kick for almost 30 years. He was a class act or sure. Besides
being a pillar to Johnny Carson's wacky antics, he was also a
proud US Marine Corps Veteran who served in two wars. WWII
and Korea. Most people don't know that about McMahon. He
saw combat in Korea. He also helped Jerry Lewis in his
OK, so the real big news of the week, has to be Michael Jackson's sudden passing at age 50. The King of Pop is dead. And while the pundits, and the talking heads, are all trying to get the scoop on the actual cause of death, there can be no denying what he brought to the music world. Michael Jackson was an unbelievable super talented creative genius. Singer, songwriter, dancer and performer. I mean think about it. For a while there, especially during the THRILLER era, MJ was the man. He single handily turned the music world on it's ear with his groundbreaking videos and dance moves.
But there also can be no denying his darker side. Or as some would say... his lack of it. How he went from a good-lookingAfrican American male, to that chiseled old white woman in 10 years is still a mystery. I mean like a lot of you, whenever we'd see him transform over the years, it became more and more bizarre. It was freaky to say the least. Then the whole kid thing, and the Neverland Park, and Bubbles the freaking chimp, and finally the trying to buy the Elephant Man's bones...I mean Michael...what the hell???
damn his music was good. In spite all of his wackiness.
I said in the previous paragraph, my imagination is very active. So
I'm throwing out a challenge to ALL you long boarders out there. Are
you ready for this? I want to see with some kind of visual evidence,
the First Longboarder who successfully does the Moonwalk on a Longboard.
Huh? Come on my brothers and sisters! Think about it. Start practicing
cause I'm gonna try it too. The First SURFER to do The Moonwalk on
a Longboard. I'll get it on the news and on all the surfsites. Surely
one of you can do it! Moonwalk on a Longboard. It's never been done
before. Walk up to the nose, and Moonwalk back to the tail or midsection.
We are STILL calling on all able bodies and souls to pray for Lil
Miss Molly's recovery.
Please Support ALL The photographers who contribute to Ralph's Pic Of The Week every week for the last 6 years.
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
2009- Week-19 of continuous surf. Friday June 26th.
(Above) Dougie "Fresh" Wright. Local ripper back from his first winter in Hawaii where he is attending college. Don't know how much school work he gets done living on Oahu...but that's none of my business. We're all glad to see him back for the summer. And his surfing...? Well take a look for yourself. Friday June 26, 2009. To see more click on Photo. Photo by RALPH
Click on the image above to see more.
(Above) QWILL at The House Of Blues Boston,
MA. Thursday Night June 25th, 2009.
(Above) Click on this image of Brian Nevins For the FUEL TV clip taken at the WALL last March 2009. Photo by RALPH
2009- Wednesday June 23rd, 2009
(Above) This guy was killing it out there.
Who Da Guy? Wednesday June 23rd, 2009 Click on Photo to see more.
Photo by RALPH
(Above) Lars Jacobsen was bouncing all over
the place. This 19th Week of surf. Wednesday June 23rd, 2009 Click
on Photo to see more. Photo by RALPH
(Above) The Crime captured on film. Kevin
Grondin deals with the BLATANT Drop In Thursday June 25th, 2009. To
see more and other Drop-Ins click on image.
(Above) Don't tell me this is not absolutely
mindboggling beautiful and heart stopping scary. Because it is both.
Nevins lives for this stuff. June 25th, 2009. To see more-
click on image. Photo by Brian Nevins
(Above) Jared's Reflections.. June
25th, 2009. Photo by Lenny Nichols
(Above) Jon Gozzo took this photo. Rye
, NH sign of the Times.June 25th, 2009.
2009 PARTING SHOT- "Oh oh this can't be good. " Thursday June
(Above) This will not have a happy ending. Look how the wave contours to the surfer's weight and positioning. Talk about lip service. Thursday June 25, 2009 . Photo by Aaron Rohde