September
23rd, 2007
I
think one of the hardest parts of writing this weekly column and posting
these photos every week is, coming to the realization that my days of
surf travel, are for the most part, behind me. Let's face it, this Summer
was not a summer of Big Surf. So a lot of you packed your trunks and boards
and hit it to other surf destinations.
Surf locales that virtually guarantee you waves.
I've
had several close friends over the last few months get on powerful jet
planes and fly halfway around the world to surf destinations that we all
have seen in the mags and other surf DVDs. And if you're thinking that
these friends of mine are young and have no real jobs to speak of, well
that's just not true either. Some are my age and older.
So why are my traveling days behind me?
Well, working for yourself has it's bennies and it also has it's downside.
The bennies are obvious. I can surf locally whenever the surf comes up.
And trust me, that's a big one. But, there are the negatives. Taking surf
vacations is one of them. Oh, and having three teenagers is another reason
why my traveling (currently) is behind me.
Look my wife and I were not born yesterday. We're not about to leave three
teens alone at home, and expect them to get along, and do their homework,
and go school, and do what teens are supposed to do.
Especially,
teens who surf.
So, it's especially hard for me to see and hear of my friends and their
wonderful surf trips. I look at the photos of these beautiful waves and
think to myself, "I wonder if I could of handled that wave?"
Clearly, there were times in my life that I could. I'm no Kelly Slater,
not even close. But, there was a time, when I could handle my own out
in the tropics and beyond.
I
don't know about nowadays.
I
think my surf travels as of the last few years, have been more about introducing
my kids to the foreign surf. I live my surf dreams through them. And occasionally,
I'll get a wave that causes me to put it all together, and for those brief
moments, I find myself getting stoked about the simple act of surfing.
And honestly, it adds years to my life. Or it does mentally. Here's a
secret for you all. In case you have not yet figured this out.
Surfing is the fountain of youth.
My
friend LtCol Jay Hammer who grew up surfing the waves here in New
England, more specifically, he mostly surfed here in New Hampshire.
And make no mistake about it. During his reign here, he could surf as
good and as stylish as anyone. Well Jason called me today from
Hawaii. He proceeded to tell me of beautiful head high days at
a well known spot on the North Shore that he shared with just 6
other people.
I was jealous.
I mean, Dam. Here's my buddy Jason "Rat" Hammer still
getting tropical waves, while I was home groveling at the Wall
this week, during that two day, mini swell, with about 60 to 100
other surfers, all banging rails and surfing like rusty old stick figures.
Rusty?
That's right. Rusty, because we don't get to surf good waves enough around
here. We are rusty and "kooking out" on every other wave, because
we just don't surf enough. It only stands to reason. If you don't get
good waves, you won't get to be a good surfer.
Then I thought about next winter, and made a decision.
I will go on a surf trip to some tropical destination if it's the last
thing I do. And I'll have the photos and video to post here for you to
all see. And maybe, just maybe, one of you will think to yourself,
"Dam that Ralph, he's got it made, getting to go on these cool surf
trips."
And somewhere, I will be smiling and shaking my head.
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So
we are officially in the months of Autumn. Although it does not feel
like Fall. I do hope that you all got some of those waves on Wednesday and
Thursday. It might not have been big, but it was something to push you along.
And...the water was still very warm. Was it worth skipping school or work
for? I don't know. Maybe. It's hard to tell what kind of surf we're going
to get this Fall. I mean hell, the dam forecasters are now going back on
their Hurricane predictions for this season. No shit. Like we need you experts
to tell us that there's been no significant storms in the Eastern Seaboard?
Hello?
It's
been a lackluster first month of Hurri season.
But don't feel too bad. The boys on the west coast are suffering too.
They have had a rather smallish summer as well. Maybe Al Gore was
right. Maybe this Global Warming thing is for real? Nah...
There has been surf in Hawaii this summer. Yep. The 50th
state has been pumping on the south shore all summer. In fact, both the
North Shore and the South shore have been sharing different
swells these past few weeks.
Might I suggest a trip to the Islands? If you have never been to
Hawaii, you really need to think about going at least once in your
life. Especially the North Shore. I have been many times in my
life, and each and every time, it has been an experience that you cannot
find anywhere else.
The Aloha state has it all.
Speaking of which. Last night I had the distinct pleasure of seeing and
hearing the super talented Makaha Sons and Friends at the Meehand
Center for the Performing Arts in Stratham, NH. It was a night of
Aloha as the beautiful voices of Louis "Moon" Kauakahi, Uncle
Jerome Koko and little brother John Koko sang and played their
instruments, in a rich and lush traditional Hawaiian style.
They were joined by soloist Hoku Zuttermeister, Andy Wang and local
(up and coming superstar) Margo Reola.
Credit the Savastano brothers, Rick and John for
bringing this night of Aloha to the seacoast. It was truly a night
to remember. And the Makaha Sons sang the National Anthem
at the Patriots Game today in front of 68,000 fans.
And how about them Patriots? Oh baby! Now you all know I am a fan
of the team, and you all know that I'd be saying something about last
week's destruction of the San Diego Chargers and today's Massacre
of the Buffalo Bills but did any of you think that they would be
this good? I mean come on! Are you kidding me? Three consecutive weeks
they score 38 points? Huh? Who can beat them? The Colts? Maybe.
The Steelers? Possibly. The Packers...who knows? All we know (and
I say we, because they are called the New England Patriots, and
the reason you're reading this shit is because you have some kind of tie
with New England), they look unbeatable.
And with all the negative BS that went on the last couple of weeks, this
is exactly what we all need.
Hey...the Red Sox clinched their spot in the Play-Offs too.
Oh yea, it's all coming together. The Sox, the Pats, the Surf...oh
right...there is no surf. Hey who cares. It's Sunday, and Red
Sox nation and Patriots Nation is celebrating.
Let's all feel good about ourselves.
In the upcoming weeks we'll be posting info on the GARY RITCHIE
Fundraiser. *Gary is doing better and thanks all of you for your positive
thoughts and prayers.
***My column will be late next week. due to my participation in Vietnam
Veterans Memorial Surf Paddle
The
Landon Miller Fund through ANY Citizen Bank. Or send your
donation to:
The
Landon Miller Foundation
83 South Road
North Hampton, NH 03862
Click below
to see Danny Tribute or see Danny Surfing
Tribute to Danny. North By
Northeast
Remember
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.
Ralph
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