How many times have we all said or written those words? Pray for
surf. Or worse, Pray For Hurricanes. We all don't put much
stock into those words, as they have become, part of our overall make-up.
We don't really think much beyond what "we want out of each storm,
and or Hurricane". We want surf, and we don't care how we get it.
And, we want it now. Being a surfer in New England during mid to
late summer, we all look down in the tropics for any sign of any Tropical
depressions or Tropical Storm activity. To a single surfer,
both men and women, we all hope and "pray" for big surf. The
bigger, the better.
What we don't really think about is, what happens to others when our dreams
and prayers are answered. Like today for instance. The people in Jamaica
are living a nightmare as I write this. This Hurricane that is
steamrolling towards the Caribbean Island is bearing down on this
Rastafarian Nation with a vengeance. This storm my friends, is
not for the feint of heart.
Hurricane Dean is a CAT 4 storm that is packing 145mph winds.
And this storm, when all is said and done, will undoubtedly cause death
and destruction. Yet, all any of us can think about is, will we get any
surf from this? Will we get overhead surf, and will it be clean and warm?
Will it be crowded? Will I get good pics and video?
I know I'm being unfair here.
really don't think that any of you would trade a six foot wave
over the life of a small child. I think I can safely say that. At least,
I hope that's the case. If I thought for a minute, that any of my friends
who I surf with, on a regular basis, would gladly take a wave, over someone's
life, no matter how poor, and how remote, well, simply put, we wouldn't
be friends for long.
However, if we all stopped and thought about, what we really all pray
and hope for, we'd probably tone it down.
Most surfers, just don't think about the many deaths, or the thousands
that are left homeless, during these storms. Or, they turn a blind eye
to it. They see it, and hear it on TV, or read about it, in the papers.
But for the most part, we shut it out and try not to dwell on it. After
all, we have no control over the weather.
I wrote something similar once, after the devastating Tsunami of
December 2004, where the irony of a massive Tidal wave, killed
all those people. My message was the same. And that is: Surfers want surf.
To hell with everyone and everything else. Surfers just want to go surfing,
and we want big waves. And unfortunately, big surf is caused by big storms.
And big storms, more times than not, kill people. Many, many people. Men,
women and children.
only God would guide these massive storms out to sea, and have
them just sit out there for weeks on end. Why can't God just produce perfectly
groomed, lined up hollow waves? Is that too much to ask for? Or to pray
that's it. Maybe we have to add that little sidenote to our "Pray
For Surf" prayers. You know, "God please send us Hurricanes
and tropical storms and PLEASE God, do NOT have them make landfall, instead
Lord, have them just skirt the coastline. Thank you Lord."
do you say? Should we all try those prayers?
Otherwise, we will all feel guilty, if we hope and pray for these massive
storms (like DEAN). This storm will not only cause massive deaths
and destruction, but the dam thing will never get into our window for
swell activity. So to add insult to injury, the last two storms have only
killed and destroyed lives, and not given any of us New Englanders
anything to ride.
for Surf? Pray For Hurricanes? Sure, but only of they go out to Sea and
not kill anyone. I for one, don't want that guilt hanging over my head,
when the first big swell of Summer 2007 hits. I want surf as much
as the next guy, I just don't want anyone to have to die for it. Especially
some innocent civilian trying to make a living in some poverty stricken
village. I don't need surf that bad.
So I say...
...Pray for Surf, that will not kill anyone.
you for all the positive comments from last week's column. It was good
to break away the weekly content and focus on something good like the
paddle for Danny Miller.
Again, if you were there, or took part in it, you know what I'm talking
about. If you were not, go back and read last week's column. I think you'll
find the photos and coverage to be something worth taking in.
I can tell you all, that the family and friends of Danny Miller
were very happy with the whole tribute.
I'm having a hard time believing that Cinnamon Rainbows shop guy
Matt Evans is heading off to college this week. It seems like yesterday
when his mom and dad were telling me how little Mattie got his
head stuck in some bannister somewhere in Florida. Now he's heading
off to college in San Diego. Gee, you think Matt will be
getting in some surf time out there? We all wish Matt the best
of luck and we look forward to getting some Southern Cal photos
from him once he settles in.
Another shop worker is heading off to college as well. Ricky Radkay
will be heading down south to Tampa to attend school. Man is it
me, or is everyone growing up too fast? Slow down kids. You're making
me feel older as well.
Now for a couple of Happy Birthday shout outs! Julia Nichols
and her little brother Kai. They are both celebrating birthdays
this week. Julia's is today, and Kai's is the Friday's
the 24th. Turns out, the 24th is also the birthdate of the
late Duke Kahanamoku. That's pretty cool. Kai and the Duke
have the same birthdays.
Happy Birthday Julia & Kai.
I'm happy to report that HBO has canceled JOHN FROM CINCINNATI.
Thank God, that show had a chance to redeem itself many times over
the last month or two and never got it together. Please NO MORE shows
on Surfing. Unless they do a SitCom. Hell, I could make a sitcom on surfing.
All I'd have to do is tape some of the daily conversations that I have
with some of my friends every week. They'd be funnier than half the crap
that's on TV these days. Seriously, Hollyweird, if you're reading
this...let it go. No one gives a Rats Ass about surfing. It's just not
that interesting to make a TV series about. It's like Skiing or snowboarding.
Who would want to watch a TV series about any of those sports? Let it
Surfing and the people who do it alone.
Last week I bitched about the Patriots and their pre-season lack
luster performance. This week MVF, myself and a couple of friends
attended the TITANS game and we were impressed with both the first
Defense and first Offense. The Patriots looked good. Especially
when Rodney Harrison and Junior Seau put a serious hurt
on TITANS QB Vince Young. There were plenty of other highlights
during that first half as well. Brady threw a nice TD pass...but
then again, he got picked off too. One for a TD. Ouch. All in all, the
2nd preseason game was...well, it was exciting.
I also expressed concern over the fact that the Yankees are sneaking
up on the Red Sox. They are only 5 games back. Is this worrisome
to anyone else out there? People I talk to say no, I don't know enough
about the game of Baseball to offer any insight or advice. I am at best,
a fair-weather fan. I do know that there was a time this season where
the Sox were 14 games up on them pinstriped fools.
But 5 games...? That seems close to me.
I want to thank everyone who came out last Monday to check out
BIG HANDSOME DADDY at 931 OCEAN in Hampton.Big
Handsome Daddy (BHD) is a blues/rock based band that is heavily
influenced by Stevie Ray Vaughan and Jimi Hendrix.
The Paddle for Danny Miller should reawaken your commitment to helping
out his young son. So if you haven't already, please send a little something
for little Landon.
Landon Miller Fund through ANY Citizen Bank. Or send your
Landon Miller Foundation
83 South Road
North Hampton, NH 03862
to see Danny Tribute or see Danny Surfing
Tribute to Danny. North By
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.