April 8th, 2007 Easter Sunday
I honestly don't know, how many of you out there reading this, believe
in something bigger than what is here on earth. By bigger I mean God.
You see in Surfing, Religion is a lot like politics. It's better to just
keep it neutral. Although, I'm afraid my politics may seep into a few
of my columns from time to time. And quite frankly, I don't care what
you think about my take on world politics. That's my own opinion. But
talking about religion?
That's a tough one.
My guess is, I think most of you believe in something. In fact, I know
plenty of you who do. I also know a few who don't. What do I believe?
Well, I'm a Christian. My faith is solid. I believe in God
and Jesus Christ. I believe in the resurrection. No I'm not a bible
toting born again Christian. In fact, I attend church infrequently
at best. I make no excuses about my spotty attendance record. But, I do
believe. I do.
However, I think there's something to all religions. Especially
for those who practice it. I also know that some religions can get a little
carried away with their message. For instance...(oh oh here he goes with
his political overtones) Radical Islamic Muslims. Call me cynical,
but I don't believe, that if you kill an American, whether here
in our own land, or in the Mideast, that you will meet Allah
and be rewarded with 42 Virgins.
Sorry, but homey ain't buying that crap.
I guess that would be an easy sell if you have nothing to begin with.
The young men and women, that these scumbag Terrorists recruit, for the
most part, have nothing. Unlike many of us.
We have ...Surfing.
You could NOT get any Surfer I know, to leave all this (even as inconsistent
as it can get) behind for the promise of 42 Virgins. No way in
Which sort of brings me back to the beginning of this column. If you are
a Christian or a Jew, you believe in an afterlife. For those
of us who have an active imagination, we might believe in a place where
there is Tropical conditions, sunny, blue skies, warm weather, warm
water and perfect waves, breaking both ways. And you would be surrounded
by loved ones and friends who have since passed away.
Until someone with complete authority tells me anything different, that's
what I'm believing. I've never heard anyone who is either a Reverend,
Pastor, Priest, or Rabbi say anything that would lead me to think
So my friends, what if it's true? What if there is something of a paradise
like that for surfers? Some of you might be saying...this is BS! That,
this is not that far removed from what the Evil Terrorists are Promising
the looney birds who are blowing themselves up overseas. Well, it is different.
You don't have to Kill anyone to get what we want. You just have to be
And really, what harm can come to any of us, if we all behaved ourselves?
None. Be good to each other. Help someone out who needs help. Lend a hand.
Make someone's life better. Sacrifice a little bit of yourself to make
someone else's life better.
Who knows...you may be rewarded in the end.
And it may come in the form of Perfect surf.
of death. I want to share this experience with you all. The other day
I was driving south down Rte 95. I was heading to Beverly
to visit my Mother, when I saw this wild Turkey make a mad dash
across the North bound lane and
continue on through the median strip. The bird never broke stride, as
it continued on right into my oncoming path. I started to freak. I mean
I was going 75!
At the last possible moment, I stepped on the gas and just missed the
bird by inches. I saw it's eyes look right at me as I sped by. I looked
into my rearview mirror just in time to see a vehicle behind me, hit
the poor bird dead on. There were feathers and entrails flying through
the air. Dam! That was close. No sooner had I gone another mile or two,
when I spotted another Turkey in my lane. Only this one, was
already dead. Still, I had to drive around it.
Well, I'd like to say the story stops here, but it does not. When I
reached the Topsfield area, I saw a tow truck, a police car and
an ambulance up ahead. There in the Median strip, was a vehicle that
had just over turned. There was a man being helped. They were putting
a blanket around him. And ...once again, lying on it's side, was another
dam Turkey! I shook my head and turned on the radio. The lead
off story, was about a woman who was having problems with a Turkey
in her yard in Marblehead. I swear on my father's grave this
all happened just the way I described it.
So what's the moral of this story? Hell if I know.
I do know this...
Watch out for those Wild Turkeys.
I apologize to everyone who may have taken my word as the Gospel Truth
when I said that winter was over. I knew the second I wrote those words
that it would come back and haunt me. It did and then some. Not only
was winter not over, but that snow was the worse kind. Heavy and wet.
Followed by dropping temps, which turned the stuff into ice blocks.
Not exactly Spring/Easter/Baseball weather. Hardly. It felt and
still does today feel like Winter.
Although, the waves on April 5th, 2007 will go down as some of
the best Spring Surf we've had in the last few years. I do hope
you scored some. Because it was good.
As in very good.
The Red Sox nation breathed a sigh of relief as Mr Gazillion
Dollar, Japanese Ace, Dice-K made his debut on Thursday and
came off with flying colors. 10 strikeouts later and the Red
Sox Faithful has anointed him, the second coming of Pedro Martinez.
The season is way too early to be making predictions. So I'll keep my
Speaking of predictions. They are calling for 17 Atlantic Hurricanes
this year, with 9 being in the major category. It's way too early
for that kind of talk too. Let's wait and see what develops.
Happy Easter and Passover. God Bless you all.
Remember The Danny Miller Foundation.
Donations for Late Surfer Danny Miller's young son can be made to
The Landon Miller Fund through ANY Citizen Bank.
Or send your donation to:
The Landon Miller Foundation
83 South Road
North Hampton, NH 03862
below to see Danny Tribute or see Danny Surfing
Tribute to Danny.
North By Northeast
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.