April 1st, 2007
I was going to start the column off this week with something clever and
funny about today being April Fools Day. Then I thought about it
and decided to pass. April Fool's Jokes are more a pain in the
ass than anything that I would find funny. Although, I'm sure I've pulled
a few pranks in my youth. I have a friend who shall remain anonymous who
looks at this day with anticipation and glee for months prior. I swear.
This friend would go out of their way (including spending hordes of money)
just to bust my ass on this day. Now I ask you all, why do some people
have to be so hurtful?
I mean fer crissakes, it's not a real holiday.
Although today (we spoke on the phone) this friend said to me "It
IS a Holiday." Well, maybe it's one of those quirky holidays like,
Valentines Day, or Ground Hog Day. But surely it's not up
there with the big guns. Christmas, Chanukah, or Secretary Day.
Can you imagine having this day as your birthday?Think about it. Growing
up as Aprils 1st as your actual birthday. I'd a hit someone along
the way, that's for sure. Not hard mind you. But enough to make a point.
You know, a warranted bitch slap.
Today is also Palm Sunday. Which reminds me, I sure wouldn't mind
laying under some palms right now listening to some perfect overhead swell
unload on the reef. Instead, I'm listening to the Robins outside my window.
Spring has finally sprung here in the Granite State. And I think
it's safe to say, you can put away the snow shovels and snow blowers.
Although I do remember a few years ago when we all got hit by that HUGE
Snow storm on April 1st. Now that was a cruel joke.
This is a historical biblical date for Christians. Palm Sunday.
The beginning on what the Christian faith is all based on. The Resurrection.
But that's next week.
Today is Palm Sunday. So for you faithful followers of Christ,
enjoy this day, and pray that Jesus hears our prayers for strength
and faith, against the evil masses who want to destroy this earth. Help
us find the strength Lord to fight those evil S.O.B.s.
Or, at least point them out to our Marines and Soldiers
so they can kill their stinking asses. Thank you Lord.
I truly hope you all got to surf on Tuesday. Oh no...tell me you
missed it. You missed it? Oh man...you don't want to know how good it
was. Wait you do? Well, if you insist. All points were firing. And the
beach breaks were unloaded with glassy perfection.
That day March 27, 2007 was the ONE Year anniversary of
last years' infamous swell. Oh yes it was. I know it was because, it's
my late father's birthday and my youngest daughter's birthday. Last year,
I shot some of that killer footage that's in my latest movie on this day.
In fact, Brian Nevins stood a few feet from where I was standing
and shot that great photo of Mike Moran in the barrel for the Surfers
Journal article. That same wave appears in all it's glory on video
and is (in my opinion) one of the highlights of my movie NORTH BY NORTHEAST.
If you didn't surf on Tuesday...well, you truly missed it.
And that my friends, is NOT an April Fool's Joke.
I am also debating whether or not to bring this up. What's that you
say? Well, I managed to get out the next morning (Wednesday) and you
know what?...It was good. How good? Good enough for me to get barreled.
Good enough to curse myself for not bringing my camera to the beach.
I mean, I saw a few waves that looked absolutely beautiful. The color.
The light. The barren crowds. It was almost dreamlike. And yes...I had
it to myself for about an hour. Then my buddy and fellow photog man
John Carden came out to join me. We got a few head high waves
before it shut down. I mean, it really shut down. The size dropped and
so did the shape. In a matter of two hours, There were only the walled
up closeouts. Not exactly the makings of a dream session.
Still, those waves were so dam pretty.
And to think I had it alone for a good deal of time. I recall seeing
one wave that was so pretty and perfect, that I actually stopped paddling,
just to watch it unfold and dissipate on the beach.
The short life of an ocean wave. Born hundreds of miles out to sea,
then travels a long distance, to meet the shallow bottom and expire.
It truly is mind boggling, if you stop and think about what a wave really
I've said it so many times. Waves are timeless. The empty perfect wave,
is the same today, as it was, 100 years ago.
Check out the empty wave photos from my friend up north. Mr Ed O'Connell.
Look at the eerie similarity of both photos and more importantly, look
at both waves.
Are you freaking kidding me?
My boy Tony Beradini is doing much better, as his new hip takes
shape. I guess Ricky Evans has been in touch. It's always nice
having someone in the surf community who has already been through a
major Hip Replacement operation. But Tony is up to the
task at hand.
Pain is Good.
I know that sounds harsh, but you have to suck it up and deal with this.
You want to surf? You have to suffer.
I just came back from checking the news. There was a Major Tsunmai
hitting parts of the Solomon Islands today. People were lost.
Don't know how many were surfers.
I bet there were a few. And that my friends is sad.
Remember The Danny Miller Foundation.
Donations for Late Surfer Danny Miller's young son can be made to
The Landon Miller Fund through ANY Citizen Bank.
Or send your donation to:
The Landon Miller Foundation
83 South Road
North Hampton, NH 03862
below to see Danny Tribute or see Danny Surfing
Tribute to Danny.
North By Northeast
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.