There will be no pics associated with this story. You will have to rely on your imagination. This story happened to me. Yes me, Mr Camera. And I didn't have any of my cameras with me. It was Monday, July 30th, 2018. On a calculated gamble, I drove north to find peace and solace with no crowds. And I found exactly what I was looking for. I need to back up a little here. As some of you may or may not know, I have stopped surfing in the winter since 2016. My days of paddling out in the winter are now just a cold memory. *Though I will surf in the tropics in the winter. But around here? I'm done.
Look, I think I filled my quota. After all, I did surf every single day for a year when I turned 50 and then I did it again, when I turned 60. Now just two years shy of 70, I am slowing down. Mostly due to my health concerns and my doctor's worrying about me. I just laugh when he asks me to quit surfing. Next year will be my 55th year surfing. I'm going to surf up until my dying day.
Ironically, I surfed those two year campaigns starting and ending on my
birthday. What's so ironic about that? Well, the last time I surfed prior to my latest birthday (July 26th), was on my birthday in July of 2017. So when I recently paddled out on my birthday last week, it had been a year to the day since I last surfed. And surprisingly, I caught the very first wave I paddled for.
Suffice it to say, Lil Ralphie was feeling his oats.
So on this last Monday I was itching to get back out in the water.
So imagine my surprise to find a spot empty. With no surfers in sight. Now granted, it was only thigh high with the occasional waist high wave. But it was solid glass and there were no other surfers. I was damn near giddy.
I pulled my black longboard out of the "Con." Quickly waxed up, threw on my short sleeve rash guard, and paddled out. No leash and just wearing trunks. I felt like I was in a Bruce Brown movie. Paddling out at some remote point break in the world. Hidden from the masses. My arms in the warm water felt so good.
Pulling myself along with ease and with conviction. I say this only because, I do daily exercises where I will do between
50 to 100 push-ups every day except Sunday. Doing those push-ups have (always) given me upper body strength that is imperative to surfing. Because any surfer will tell you, "it's all about the paddling". If you can't paddle, you can't catch a wave. It's a pretty simple theory. I've always been able to paddle. How else could I have done those two 365 day year long surf campaigns? I owe it all to the Marine Corps. I never stopped doing push-ups since. We're talking 50 years worth now.
Okay so back to my solo session. I paddle out to the line up that I am very familiar with. There was a lobster boat out in front of me.
They were hauling traps. It was hot and humid. I nodded to them and they nodded back. One of their lobster buoys was off to my right. I used it to line up with along with the familiar land formations. I saw their boat rise with the swell and knew there was a set coming. I let the first one go by me and swung on the second wave which was slightly bigger than the first one. I paddled and easily slipped into this glassy thigh high wave. I grabbed my rail and just glided along looking at the bottom with all the rocks and kelp.
The water was crystal clear. I could see everything underneath me.
I quickly paddled back out
and managed to meet another wave. I swung again and dropped into another beautiful lined up glass slipper. This second wave I actually rode over an exposed boulder that was covered in kelp. And yet, my fins did not touch the rock. "Wow, that was lucky." I thought to myself.
And no sooner had I paddled back out when another set came my way. And once again to my disbelief I caught another one. Long story short. I caught 10 waves in a row in under 10 minutes. I was looking at my watch shaking my head in disbelief. The whole time, I kept looking back at the beach, hoping that no one would stop and paddle out. I know that sounds selfish. But I have been standing on the shores for months now taking video and photos of everyone I know. I really needed this soulful surf session.
My plan was to surf for an hour or catch 20 waves. Whichever came first. I had paddled for and caught and rode 17 waves in a row
when on my 18th attempt, I swung right instead of swinging my board to the left. And it threw me off. That slight change in my mojo messed me up. And the sad part? That 18th wave was the biggest one yet. It was now going on 30 minutes. Still I couldn't believe my good fortune. The sun was shining bright on my face and the water was so incredibly warm. I was satisfied. I was stoked. I felt like a surfer again. I ended up catching 20 waves out of 23 attempts. On my 19th wave, I saw him. A surfer. In a full wetsuit holding a shortboard running down the beach.
My heart sank. I thought of my fellow photographer Brian Nevins who once sat in the same spot as I was sitting. He was alone. This was during my "Catch a Wave For Molly" campaign. At the time, it was winter. The surf was good. Chest high with bigger sets. Only difference was there were three other surfers suiting up. So I wasn't going to be the only person killing his vibe. But I remember our conversation. He said "I was wondering who was going to be the surfer to ruin this solo session." I could only smile and motion to the others who were now paddling out. "I'm only here for my one wave. " I answered. These guys are here to surf. Still, I never forgot that.
But this was different. The waves were not that big. And he was carrying a shortboard. My 20th wave appeared on the horizon. I swung and paddled into this perfect wave. I looked at the surfer who was frantically waving at me, I waved back as I rode the wave as far as I could. I had been in the water for 50 minutes. Alone. I caught 20 waves in 23 attempts in 50 minutes.
I slowly paddled the rest of the way in.
I picked up my board and walked up the beach. I grabbed my belongings and looked back out at the line-up. The shortboarder had caught a wave, and remarkably, did a few turns and a cutback. I smiled and thought to myself "Well, it's all yours now my friend. Enjoy this wonderful day."
I spoke with his fiancée who said that "this is his favorite wave." They lived in Philadelphia and were here on vacation. I told her, I would be writing about this. I gave her the URL for the Blog. So if she and "Matt" are reading this, I hope you both had a wonderful day, and more importantly, I wish you both the best in your marriage, and may you both live a long and happy life together.
Keep surfing in your lives. Because "Surfing Heals All Wounds."
And so on August 2nd, 2018 the ROXY event at Cinnamon Rainbows almost didn't happen due to the crazy stormy weather that descended on us from the heavens. Wild thunder and lightening with the occasional rain had seriously put a damper on showing my movie GRANITE GIRLS outside.
Look, nobody wants to get struck by lightening (trust me, I know this from actually being struck by lightening in 2003 but that's a story for another time) so it was a risky situation. The dark clouds filled the sky and the bolts of lightening were making things look dicey at best. At one point I spoke up and said "We are going to get a cool rainbow once this passes through. And not just a cool rainbow, but a Cinnamon Rainbow!"
And we did. As evident above. The storm passed and the ROXY event went off. Stephanie and her assistant (I'm sorry I forgot your name) pulled out all the stops and made the best of a sketchy situation. Big KUDOS to the Las Olas Burritos. Man they were good! The surf camp went off and the shop provided everything else the girls needed. I was stoked to show the movie to Melinda and Chris who missed the premiere. I hope they liked the movie.
Be sure to check out my photo gallery of the ROXY night.
Before the movie Cory and I went down to the main beach to catch some of Stan Chew's Trio at the Ashworth.
Man was that worth the drive.
It has been a very long time since I've seen Stan play. I have to say without any reservation, that Stan is a GREAT player. I mean he can pick that guitar and make it sing. In fact the whole trio were great! Cory and i both enjoyed the music. Their harmonies were spot on. And they can all play. In other words, there is no dead weight in this trio.
Stan looked happy and content up there. I always say to my fellow musicians, when it stops being fun, that's when you need to stop and reassess what you're doing. These guys were all having fun. No need to second guess anything that you guys are doing.
They are playing back there on August 16th, 2018 and barring any other commitments that may come up, we will be there. * I'm hoping by then they play "I am a man of constant sorrow" by Richard Burnett. Because I know these guys will do a killer version of that song. Be sure and check out my gallery of pics that I shot of them.
" Surfing, Blue Grass, and ROXY Heals All Wounds."
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This is a 50yr old photo that ed took in Vietnam. With all the fog we've had of late I thought this would be a good time to feature this photo. The Fog in Vietnam was a constant concern in the mornings. Especially during the monsoon season. The enemy took advantage of the fog. That Constantina wire could only do so much. I'm glad Ed made it back. Photo by Ed O'Connell
*Click the photo above to see a larger version of Ed's Pic.
Now for Some Local, National and International News
I am sure that many of you have surf art lying around the house. And look, by surf art I mean anything from a full on painting to a napkin scribble. If it's surf art related, I want to see it. Just take a digital photo and email it to me. Just make sure you give me the info that I'm asking for in the graphic above.
I'm starting to get
some great pieces of surf art. I think you will all be pleased at the different styles and techniques of the surf art that's coming in two weeks. So start looking or creating some cool art. Or if you know anyone else who might be interested in this annual Surf Art Blog let them know.
Not exactly surf art. Though his hair does look like a wave.
No I thought it ironic that my corn looks like his hair. Wonder how
close his brain cells are to the kernels from that ear of corn?
What if there are more corn kernels than brain cells? H-m-m-m.
What if KSM was a surfer? What would he be like in the water? I'm guessing he'd be a complete dickhead. Running kids over. Yelling and swearing at everyone who came within two feet of him. Yeah, he'd be an asshole for sure. All I can say is thank God he doesn't or didn't surf. Though I suppose if he was a surfer, he would have never got involved with Osama Bin Laden and he wouldn't have come up with the 9-11 plan and killed all of those innocent people.
KSM Photoshop of the Week
And so my friends, please take advantage of this weekly photo shop of the mastermind who planned 9-11 and resulted in the deaths of 3,000 innocent civilians by KSM (Khalid Sheik Mohammed).
*Note to self -must pick up a case of sex wax
at Home Depot this week.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ALL AUGUST BABIES 2018!
GET WELL SOON Tony Berardini and Johnny Fatello!
FYI Lenny Nichols is looking for someone or someones to take over the ESA-NNE District. Please contact Lenny Nichols
by calling his cell (603) 944-2418
THE 11th ANNUAL HIT THE BEACH is set for the last Friday in August. So mark your calendars. Friday August 31st, 2018.
Please
Support ALL The photographers who contribute to
Ralph's Pic Of The Week every week for the last 13 years.
** BUY a HIGH RES Photo
from any of the weeks on RPOTW.
Johnny A is old friend of mine. He's also one of the most talented and innovative guitarists on the planet. I can't tell you all enough just how good he is. But those of you who know me know that I don't say things like this about anyone unless it's true. Trust me. JOHNNY A is great!
CLICK ON THE IMAGE to BUY Tix. I'll be there.
Remember
my friends... Surfing Heals All Wounds.
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.
Ralph
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(Above) Does size really matter?
Sunday July 29th, 2018. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) Michael Massimi in full cruise control. Sunday July 29th, 2018.
Photo by RALPH *Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
Today- The ROXY Event. Thursday August 2nd, 2018.
Photos by RALPH
(Above) The night started out fine. And then the clouds, thunder, and lightening came.
Thursday August 2nd, 2018. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) They were discussing the negative affects of being struck by lightening.
Thursday August 2nd, 2018. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) The silver lining in the storms. A true "CINNAMON RAINBOW"
Thursday August 2nd, 2018. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
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