That's Markey J on the far left. He's watching the waves on Friday April 8th, 2022 while Chris, Toby, and John mingle. Markey is mentally timing the sets, and watching the lineup to see how much of a current there is out there. This swell was not the biggest waves we've ever had. Hardly. But these wind swells tend to be more challenging, with the close proximity of the set waves when they come. And come they do. Sometimes at a relentless pace.
This day was challenging for everyone. Unknown taking a intentional death drop after bailing. I apologize for this being so out of focus. I just happened to catch this out of the corner of my eye. Suffice it to say, everyone on the beach let out a loud and audible groan.
Then I watched Markey enter the water and the arena.
This was his first wave attempt.
The wave sucked up quickly and Markey decided to pull back and wait for another one that was more manageable. But this wave had other plans.
The wave had already decided to take Markey along for a little ride.
Keep in mind his board is all of 10' long. Somewhere in this photo Markey
is attached to his board. And he's not happy about it.
There was no turning back. The damage was about to be unleashed.
If you look closely, you will see that the board is embedded in the lip and going over the Falls. I immediately stopped shooting because I knew that Markey was about to get throttled, and I needed to monitor what was going on out there just in case he needed assistance. Long story short, the wave drove him to the bottom and held him there.
"It was all dark down there. And I couldn't get to the surface. And once I finally swam to the top and broke free, there was another one waiting to unload on me. I had barely enough time to catch my breath before going through the cycle of another beatdown." Markey told me later.
He also felt sick to his stomach out there. And he was not the only one to say that. Toby Parke said his stomach was churning. As did Shayne Forsely. And Johnny "JIM" Meehan did three walk abouts. In other words, rather then paddle back out after catching those long rights, he would come all the way in and walk around to the channel to paddle back out. Like I said, it was relentless out there. Everyone had a tough time out there.
And I captured it all on both video and stills.
I'll be working on the video this week. I shot from 2PM to 7PM.
Needless to say, I've got some editing to do.
Everyone has a horror story to tell about a big wave day. I have a few myself.
SURFING HORROR STORIES
From the Northshore to the Northshore
It’s the nature of the beast. If you poke the beast long enough, it’s going to bite you in the ass. And that my friends, is what every surfer does when they paddle out into big waves. Every single surfer on the planet has a horror story to tell. Some unfortunately, did not end well.
Here’s a couple of mine to share with you.
On October 8th, 1988 the day after my first wedding anniversary I was surfing a decent sized swell here in NH. I was surfing on my all time favorite board a 6’4” Blue Hawaii that I bought off the rack at Stevie O'Hara’s The Board Shop on the main beach. I could surf any size wave with that board and always felt comfortable on it. This particular swell I was in my fall/spring wetsuit. I’m guessing it was a 4/3 or something similar. I was wearing boots and gloves and for a hood I had an AQUA LID. It was made of thin nylon, and really was only for wind protection. Mine was secured by a strap under chin.
The waves were a solid 6-8’ and clean. As you can clearly see.
I caught a decent wave and rode it all the way to the inside and kicked out.
You can see the set behind me in this pic (above) and the one below.
*This is the same wave as above. Turns out, this was the last ever photo
taken of me wearing that Aqua lid.
After this last cutback, I kicked out of the wave and I saw a 3-5 wave set looming down on me. I paddled into the first wave and did what I thought was a good solid duck dive. Nope. It wasn’t. The lip hit me hard and drove me down and I immediately lost control of my board. It literally ripped the board out of my hands. I was inside the impact zone trying to reel in my board when I turned back to see a large wave stand up and unload on me. This time the lip hit me on top of my head, and caused my aqua lid to move 180 degrees around my head, and stop directly over my face.
I found myself underwater and desperately struggling with my mitts to pull the aqua lid back to it’s regular position.
But I could not grasp it correctly. And to make matters worse, it had suddenly adhered to my face like a plastic bag over my head. When I finally surfaced I could not see anything, and I couldn't breathe with the Aqua lid directly over mouth. And I desperately needed to breathe. And, I needed to see.
Because, what I couldn’t see, was wave number three about to unload on me. The lip hit me so hard, that it knocked what little breath I had in me out of my lungs. Not good. This wave throttled me underwater like you read about. I was on the verge of doing something that you are not supposed to do in big waves. Panic. But I couldn’t see or breathe. And I just couldn’t get my mitts to grab onto the lid to pull it down, off, or over my head. It was like that scene in ALIEN when the squid like alien attached itself to the guy’s face and he couldn’t get it off. Remember?
But I needed to do something quick because unbeknown to me, wave number 4 was coming. I've never been waterboarded, but I imagine this is what it felt like. I could not breathe. And breathing is essential in life.
I don’t remember how I did it, but sometime during the thrashing and throttling and near drowning of wave number 4, I was finally able to pull that damn thing off my face. And not a moment too soon. I was gassed. Completely rattled. I ended up paddling back out and later got one of the best waves of my life.
And if you look at the other photo of me from that day, the Aqua lid is down around me neck. Where it stayed for the rest of that session. Talk about stressful. I still have the aqua lid. I never used it again after that day, I only have it because I want to be reminded of that horrific day. Photo by Baytoff.
KAMMIE LAND 1985
There’s a break on Oahu’s North Shore that is directly next to the famous Sunset Beach. When the surf is big there’s a rip that pulls you straight out between Kammies and Sunset. I was out surfing Kammies one day while watching the bigger sets swing through at Sunset. I’ve actually surfed Sunset a few times but always when it was small. And when I say small I mean small for Sunset. I surfed it at a foot or two overhead. Not really sunset, but enough for me to say I surfed there.
On this particular day at Kammies, it was midday and sunny and the swell was over head with bigger sets. But it was sunny, and I was young enough and strong enough (or so I thought) to handle it. I had caught a few waves and was feeling pretty good about myself and I was genuinely having a blast out there. It was mostly local Hawaiians out there, with a handful of Australians and Californians. I was sitting pretty far outside when I saw a set coming. I casually looked down and then I swung on one. I stroked into this bowling peak (albeit a bit too casual) and when I got to my feet, the lip pitched me out in front of the bowl and I got launched and landed out in front of wave when the lip hit my back and drove me to the bottom.
For the record I had been out in way bigger and scarier Hawaiian surf than this before. I am not a big wave surfer, but I have been out in big waves.
So there I was literally pinned to the bottom. Face first on the bottom at Kammies. It felt like a dinosaur or elephant was stepping on my back and would not let me up. I had never felt anything like this before. I mean I could not move. And being underwater like that was not the place to be if you couldn’t move. The compression I felt was relentless. I eventually felt my body being dragged but still had that pressure on my back. So while I was finally moving, I still couldn’t get to the surface because of the immense pressure. And of course, I was out of breath. And lets face it, we all need to breathe.
It finally released it’s death grip, and I was able to get to the surface.
But I was so shaken by it, that I immediately went in. I remember walking up the beach and meeting my friend Lenny Nichols who at the time was living there. “I feel so ashamed. I can’t believe that just happened to me on a relatively small day at Kammies.” I was truly beaten, humiliated and ashamed. I mean it’s one thing to get worked and beaten at Pipe or any of the other big name spots. But at Kammies?
Lenny heard me and I’ll never forget what he said to me that day. “Hey man. There’s no shame in what you just went through. This is the North Shore. There’s no shame on getting held down out there at Kammies.” I have to admit, Lenny’s words rang true with me. And ever since that day, whenever I find someone who is going through the same, no matter where we are, I will say the same to them what Lenny said to me.
There’s No Shame in getting held down out there.
No shame whatsoever.
"SURVIVING HOLD DOWNS HEALS ALL WOUNDS."
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This pic of Erin Mace was taken at the Wall on April 5th, 2008.
I hope Erin sees this and does one of two things. He confirms
it is him, or he is stoked to see this pic again.
Photo by Ed O'Connell
*Click the photo above to see a larger version of Ed's Pic.
NOW FOR SOME LOCAL AND NATIONAL NEWS
The horrific war crimes in Bucha and the recent train station bombing has turned the world up on it's collective ear.
The solutions thus far, of using sanctions are only long range repercussions. The people, rather the women and children, need immediate assistance. And that can only come one of two ways. We (NATO) give the military in Ukraine exactly what they need. Or…(and this is the one that Biden and Boris are grappling with every day) we send in our troops and military hardware, and wipe those butchers off the face of the earth.
Of course I know where that will lead to. I’m not naive. I get it. Push that rat into a corner and…well, we all know the threat of WWIII and a potential nuclear war is real. But unless Putin is suicidal, we can play his bluff.
Maybe he's afraid to die. Maybe he will finally realize that
"He who has the most weapons wins." And you lose Vlad.
Ideally, some brave Russian patriot(s) could end this today, by sacrificing their own life or lives, by taking that monster out.
That’s what I’m praying for. Some Brave Russian with a soul.
Meanwhile there's this campaign (above).
Speaking of Boris. Here he is with Zelensky strolling around the war torn country of Ukraine. This took some guts to do. He has promised more weapons to Ukraine. We need to do the same.
Meanwhile, Nancy Pelosi tested positive for COVID but the White house claims she was not near the president. Though this photo appears to tell a different story. This was on Jimmy Kimmel and all over the Internet. If you are still naive about both political parties lying to the public
you need to wake up.
No offense to the "WOKE" community. But hello?
WILL SMITH GETS A TEN YEAR BAN FROM THE OSCARS.
But...he can still be nominated, and still receive another one of those things he's holding in his hand. He just can't sit through four hours of
the Academy. Man, that doesn't sound that bad. I think the real damage is yet to come. Nobody is going to forget what he did. No matter what his wrongheaded justification claims. He's not "washed up"
by Hollywood standards, but he's clearly damaged goods. Especially in the Chris Rock corner.
ATTENTION SEACOAST VETERANS
If you are a vet living on the seacoast
stop by our Post in Hampton, NH on Saturday April 16th, 2022 from 10AM to 2PM.
Click on the image above to see a larger version
Dan Lanio Memorial Scholarship Fund
CLICK ON THE IMAGE FOR MORE INFO
Please Donate to this Timmy Sheridan GO FUND ME page.
THE GO FUND ME PAGE in Memory Of TIM SHERIDAN
*Please click on the image above to read more and to make a donation to this GoFund Me page in memory of Timmy Sheridan.
KSM Photoshop of the Week
Another obvious KSM pic this week. Sometimes these weekly KSM pics just seem to write themselves. I really don't have to look very far. Like this pic of Pelosi kissing Biden while being infected with COVID. Ole Khaliddy needed to get in on this pic.
And so my friends, please take advantage of this weekly photo shop of the mastermind who planned 9-11 and resulted in the deaths of 3,000 innocent civilians by KSM (Khalid Sheik Mohammed).
*Note to self -must pick up a case of used N95 masks
at
Home Depot this week.
Check out Clark little's New Book.
WELCOME TO THE SEACOAST COMMUNITY MALIA J RIZZO.
Born at the peak of the swell on Friday April 8th, 2022 at exactly
10AM. Both mom (Noelle) and baby are doing fine and are coming home today. This is Noelle and Pete's first child. This is our 4th grandchild. And we can't wait to meet her today.
Little Surfer Girl "MJ" catching much needed rest after her
little liquid journey
from mother to mother ocean.
Pete and Noelle and baby "Malia" (Of The Sea).
HAPPY BIRTHDAY Duffy McCarthy April 9th, 2022!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY Karen Evans April 8th, 2022!
HAPPY 37th Anniversary Lenny and Arlene Nichols 4-3-22!
GET WELL SOON to local surfer Mike Keefe! You'll be back in the water before you know it Mike. Just rest up and get stronger brother. We Love you!
PLEASE Keep local Surfer/Musician Pete Kowalski in your thoughts and prayers throughout the year.
Please
Support ALL The photographers who contribute to
Ralph's Pic Of The Week every week for the last 18 years.
** BUY a HIGH RES Photo
from any of the weeks on RPOTW.
Remember
my friends... Surfing Heals All Wounds.
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.
Ralph
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Yesterday- THE VINNY BAND and crew 1978.
From left to right: Danny Colby stage manager, Johnny Fatello guitar and vocals, Ralph Fatello guitar and lead vocals, the late Lester Eldrige bass and vocals, and the late Pinky Blackwell Sound Man. This photo was taken in my old apartment. Check out the wave mural. That was my first ever mural. My landlord eventually painted over it. I really miss Lester. I was looking forward to doing a VINNY reunion when I heard he passed away. REST EASY Lester.
Photo by RALPH
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I kept a daily Blog on my CATCH A WAVE FOR MOLLY surf campaign, when I surfed every single day for 365 consecutive days. Click on the Banner above to read entries of my daily journey. There's some really interesting and true experiences
that happened during that year. Some of which are to this day, unexplainable. Some are just mind blowing. But all true.
I started on July 26th, 2010 and ended on July 26th, 2011.
Some rainy Sunday, pour yourself a cup and go through the journal.
Pay close attention to the month of May in 2011. Read that month and let me know what you think of that. Be forewarned it will change you forever.
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(Above) This pic is deceiving. The right and the left were not make-able.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) Pev was out there on a longboard. Don't know how he
manged to control his board in that stiff wind, but he did.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) Another blurry image. My apologies.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) That wave out the back? Yeah, that one would hurt you.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) This is Johnny "JIM" Meehan. He was getting some good ones.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) They look better than they really were.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) Max paddled out and got a few good ones.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
(Above) Check out the rainbow spray. Mackey V gets a good one.
Friday April 8th, 2022. Photo by RALPH
*Click on the photo above to see the whole gallery
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