DUE TO POPULAR DEMAND....
*The Opinions expressed on this page are my own. Not Cinnamon Rainbows
or the owners. They are mine alone.
October 1, 2006
out near Bermuda is the next potential wave maker. His name is
Issac. This would make the 4th consecutive tropical storm that
could give us waves. Why our sudden change of luck? Hell, I know the answer
to that and it's really quite simple. And once you hear it, you'll agree.
We're getting all these waves, because certain friends of ours, have had
to leave, and or be away from the surf, the last few weeks. Lord knows
I've had a few friends who suddenly had to vacate the coast. Like my ole
buddy Jeff Crawford. Poor Jeffy had to head to the Catskills.
Clearly, the writing was on the wall with that one. The Catskills?
Dude, we were all guaranteed waves with that move. But make no mistake
about it. We all appreciate your sacrifice. And there was our friend Chris
Valhouli. Chris busted his lung while skateboarding. This was
right before Hurricane Florence hit. BAM! Another guarantee we'd
have waves. Thank you Chris. We again, ALL appreciate what you've
done in the name of New England surfing.
Perhaps you know someone, who's suffered an 'out of surfing injury', or,
had to head inland, for any length of time. If you do, we should acknowledge
them and their sacrifice. These are the unsung heroes of our Lifestyle.
from the bottoms of all of our hearts, we THANK THOSE who had to
suffer so the rest of us could surf.
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about a handful of Surfers from Way Up
North. In a place that has NO surf. These traveling surfers come WAY down
here, to catch a few waves. I mentioned that, there were some problems
with some of them. Not ALL of them. Just some of them. While 90%
of you have written and agreed with me, there was that 10% who
still don't get it. So for the last time...please PAY ATTENTION.
Don't travel to foreign countries and or other states, and give the locals
a hard time. I mean, do NOT tell a Local Surfer (no matter what his skill-or
age) to F-Off. That's just bad behavior and it will only make matters
worse. Truth be told, if you did this in a place like Hawaii, you
would get your silly little butt kicked, and you would NEVER-EVER
be able to surf there again. Period.
must bite your tongue and smile. No matter what you and your friends do
at home, you can't do it here. Or anywhere for that matter. This area
that we all live and surf in (New England) is getting more and
more crowded. And there does not seem to be any signs of the sport/lifestyle
getting any less popular. In fact, if anything, it's getting bigger. And
bigger means more potential hassles in the water. I've spoken with several
people over the last few weeks about this, and to my surprise, there's
been a underground movement of sorts, to take back the beach and the respect
that has gotten lost in the shuffle.
With more and more photographers dotting the line-ups, and more and more
soulless editors willing to publish articles and photos, naming spots,
it's gotten some folks to the breaking point. Look, I understand the nature
of the beast here. I'm a photographer/film maker who writes a weekly surf
column. I'm living the double edge sword lifestyle here. I'm as guilty
as anyone out there. I live with the guilt every week. But, at least,
I try and keep things vague. I NEVER purposely try and name spots. There's
no need to. But there are others, who have little or no roots in this
thing we all love so dearly,who just don't get it. Some with little or
no surfing experience have tried to make a living out of exposing surf
breaks, including New England. All I'm saying is...Be discreet.
Be cool. Take your photos and let the imagination of the viewer work in
about what you're doing when you snap that next photo and send it off
to the media. Just tell them, it's New England and leave it at
may have mentioned in years past that this is my favorite time of year.
I mean it truly is. I love October. I love the colors, the smells,
the crispness in the air. It's that period between the end of Summer
and the upcoming winter. And the Fall Swells to me have always been
the best. I love the well groomed offshore lines pouring onto our Coastlines.
I love the brilliant Fall colors. My friends, we are all so very lucky
to have what we have here in New England. And if you're one of
those transplants who are now living somewhere else, you know exactly
what I'm talking about. Because I can only imagine how much you miss
it here. Autumn in New England. It just does not get any better.
So I hope you all experience a healthy and surf filled Fall and may
the water stay just warm enough to milk that that 3/2 suit, with
light boots and gloves, until the cold, dark gray, November skies
fall upon us. Because, after November, all bets are off. It's
5mil and 6 mil time, and it's hard-core only.
Heard from our long lost buddy Stan Chew last week. He's now
living in the UK and will be there for another year and a half
and then he's off to Panama. He's found himself a nice little
break that looks a lot like NE. Leave it to Stan to find
a perfect wave all by his lonesome. I expect to be hearing from Stan
as the the next year winds down and the reality of his Surf Dream Camp
in Panama becomes a reality. I know I can't wait to sample some
Panamanian waves with just a handful of us out.
It's not that I don't enjoy surfing in crowds...wait, did I just write
that? I don't enjoy surfing in crowds. I can tolerate them, but I don't
I made a bet with my brother Johnny last night about today's
game between the Pats and Bengals. He thinks the Pats
are going to win. I think not. I think the stark cold reality of having
lost, Ty Law, David Givens, Willie McGinest, Adam Vinatiari and Deion
Branch has finally sunk in. And if it hasn't yet with you, it will
after today's game. I hope I'm wrong. Oh and the bet between my brother
and I? An old fashion "NOOGIE" on the head.
Seriously. That's his idea. A Noogie. Whatever. I plan on giving him
one he won't soon forget.***I JUST CAME BACK INTO MY OFFICE. It's
9:40PM. The PATS DID WIN. I WAS WRONG. DEAD WRONG. I admit it.I'm
prepared to accept the dam Noogie...dam!
speaking of Sports losers...what the hell was all that crap about last
week with T-O? I mean hello? Who really gives a rats ass about
that? Do any of you you really think that Terrell Owens would
purposely try and kill himself? Are you kidding me? That guy has the
BIGGEST EGO of anyone in the whole NFL. TO Killing
himself? I don't think so. The only ones who should be killing themselves
in the NFL is the Patriots front office.
Lord knows, a few Pats Fans are thinking about it.
Hey guess what I saw on Friday late in the day? I saw a perfect
little 3' well groomed swell with NO ONE ON IT! I swear to you
all. It was small, but clean and very ridable. And yet no one was on
it? How could that be? Well, I don't know. Not with all the technology
we all have at our fingertips. It made no sense.
Speaking of high tech gadgets. I feel so guilty. I have one of those
GPS Navigational systems in my new JEEP Commander. And
well, I can't seem to get lost anymore. I drove that thing to Hatteras
and back and never had to second guess anything I did. I mean am I overracting
here or what? Do any of you have a one in your vehicle?
One thing's for sure, I won't have another vehicle without one. They're
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace.
Surf For Fun.
P.S. Thank you all for keeping my Mother
in your thoughts and prayers.