December
29th, 2004
For
the record; I
sat down on Monday morning to write this column. There were blue skies out
my window and the wave cam, along with all the reports coming in were impressive.
The Surf was big. Very Big. The wind was howling offshore. It had all the
makings of an epic day. Clearly, as a filmmaker, I should of been on it, shooting
from every angle. As a surfer, I should of been looking for a spot that my
tired old bones could handle. But I did neither of these. I did not write
my weekly column. I did not shoot any footage. I did not surf. Why? Because,
a half a world away there were early reports of massive devastation and huge
loss of life caused by a tsunami. A Tidal Wave. A wave that caused
so much death and destruction, that they were saying that it was of "Biblical
Proportions". Think about that for a moment. I was stunned. Because
of the irony of the day. The irony of it all did not escape me. Here I was,
sitting in my office, thinking about the epic surf down the street, as I was
hearing and watching about what a wave did to millions of people. The
irony was overwhelming.
My friends, we spend the better part of our lives hoping for and seeking waves.
As surfers, we think about and dream about waves on a daily basis. The fact
that a wave, killed so many people, is a hard and bitter pill to swallow.
I know there are many of you who feel the same. I've spoken with some of you
on the phone. We're all devastated. Here it is Wednesday morning and the death
toll has reached 100,000. My God. I heard last night on the news that one
spot had 40 surfers out surfing when the first wave hit. They are all missing.
When this is all said and done, this will go down in history as the biggest
loss of life in our lifetime. And, it will be, the single biggest loss
of life, suffered by SURFERS!
I don't know what to make of it.
I do know that our friends and neighbors Phil Carey, Sashi Lyford and Kevin
Rafferty were just there. I mean they were standing and walking around
on those same beaches and villages that we keep seeing on TV. Phil told me
this morning that it was difficult to look at. "All those smiling
faces from all the kids and fishermen, I can remember so many of those friendly
people. I'm afraid to find out how many friends we may have lost."
Kevin Rafferty had trouble sleeping Monday night. "I kept thinking
about all those people. It's just awful." he said. I have not spoken
with Sashi, but I'm sure he's feeling the loss. Phil is going to send me photos
of the trip and I'll be posting them throughout the coming weeks.
I can remember reading a story in SURFER Magazine during the 70's by
Felipe Pomar that was hands down, the scariest surf story I had ever
read. Pomar was a Big Wave Surfer from Peru. He was out surfing one day off
the coast of Peru. He described how "Suddenly the ocean just emptied
out. I found myself on the dry reef. I was scared and confused. I did not
know what was happening. Then a Giant Wall of White water appeared on the
horizon. A Tsunami! I panicked trying to out race the massive wall of water.
But I could not. The wave caught up to me and I was tossed about onto the
beach and managed to survive by holding onto some tree branches.
I
quit surfing after that for many years."
Yesterday
1960's. Surfing Santa.
This was one of those clever cards back in the 60's. Why not? A surfing Santa.
photo courtesy of Rick Savastano
If you
got good surf pics send em off to me directly.
Just make sure they are NOT huge files. In fact if you have any questions
about the size, email me first and I'll write back. Start snapping your buds!!
Ralph Pic Of The Week
Today
2004. Taken a few weeks ago. At the same spot where the deadly Tsunami just
hit
Phil Carey sent me this photo.This image speaks volumes. This wave is what
we all seek. It's the reason Phil, Sashi and Kevin went to Indo. This same
spot is now the scene of despair. The difference of a few short weeks. The
Surfing World will never be the same. How could something so beautiful as
this wave become so deadly?
Photo
by Phil Carey
So what can we do? Well, there are many charities out there.The RED CROSS
being one of them. I'm sure there are Surf Websites like Surfline and
others that are setting up Disaster Relief Funds. Maybe we can start
our own right here in New Hampshire. I don't know. I know that I feel so helpless.
I do know that it couldn't hurt to say a simple prayer. I prayed every
night since I first caught wind of this. There was a story and photo of a
family of five from England. They were all surfers. Father, mother, two daughters
and a son. They had planned this surf trip for a year and we're really looking
forward to it. They are all missing. I looked at that photo and thought of
my own family. I felt sick to my stomach.
I guess
if there's lessons to be learned it's the obvious ones. But, it's the lesson
we all seem to keep forgetting.That is; we should all be thankful for what
we have. That we should take the time to tell each other that we love them
and we enjoy having them in our lives.
Life can be many moments while death is only one.
Let's not wait until something tragic happens to one of us before we acknowledge
them. Look, I'm not saying that you all get soft and mushy on each other.
I'm just saying you say what you feel.
For me, I'm happy to have you all in my life. I enjoy surfing with you all
(just not on the same wave). I enjoy the laughter we all share and the overall
good vibes. And most importtantly, That if you're my friend, you're
my friend for life.
There I said it.Your turn. Turn and say something nice to someone. Listen
to someone. Help someone out. I'm not trying to preach here. I'm just stating
the obvious. Be good to each other.
Ok... Now getting back to our protected world here in New England.
I do hope you all had a good Holiday. Hope you got some good gifts and you
gave some good
gifts. It's all about the giving.
I'm glad the Patriots are back on track. Maybe what Crop said will
come true. That The Steelers will lose thier first Play-Off game and
we'll end up playing all of our games in Foxboro. That would be nice...(and
cold).
Please be careful this New Year's Eve. Be smart. Party Smartly.
Let's hope that 2005 will bring us all good health and happiness.
Because my friends, that's all we really need. Yes, we all want surf.
And we'll get surf...we always do.
But we need, love, health and happiness.
God Bless.
Happy New Year! Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.
Ralph