what can we all say about the last couple of weeks? For starters, we should
all say Thanks. It's truly amazing, what one perfect swell after another,
can do for us all. It's almost like, we all forgot what kind of Summer
2006 started off like. And how mid-summer seemed like a cruel joke,
with no end in sight. Then came the Tropical awakenings, and ever since,
we've had back to back tropical ground swells, with tropical water temps,
and sunny skies. It's been so-o-o-o-o good.
And of course, it's been so-o-o bad too. I'm talking about the crowds,
the insane parking and short tempers. I guess we'll take the good with
the bad. But, if you all wouldn't mind me saying so, I think we all need
to back up and regroup. I mean, we need to look at each and every one
of our own personal skill levels, and ask ourselves. Do I belong out here?
In other words, do you honestly have the skill to be out in Big Surf?
Honestly. And, should you be out at certain breaks, that are clearly in
the expert range only? I know some of you paddled out at some breaks during
Florence and it was not pretty. There was that snowboard gang from
Laconia. Those guys had little, or NO experience, and yet they
all paddled out at one of the heaviest breaks we have round these parts.
The results were downright dangerous and comical. Or, it would of been
comical, if they weren't such a danger to the local crew out there.
And I've heard from several sources, that our friends from the North have
been more than just arrogant. They've been downright nasty and their behavior
has been unacceptable.
am I alluding to? Well, you can't call some local surfer to the beach
over some silly dropin. And you can't be telling local surfers to F-
-K OFF. If you Quebecians tell an American to F-
- K OFF you are basically challenging them to a fight. I spoke with
a guy from Quebec today who said he was a High School Principal
in Quebec. He told me he was constantly telling his students to
lay off the F-Bomb word. And he agreed with me when I explained
that telling an American to F-Off is the same as saying
"Let's Go! Let's Fight!" I guess F-Off means something
different up north. Down here, you tell someone to F- -K Off ...it
means one thing. It's GO TIME!
also told him, that I've been all over this world surfing. I mean, I've
been everywhere. And the ONE THING I would NEVER do in my travels,
is to tell a Local guy (no matter what his skill) to F- - K OFF.
I mean that's just stupid. And it can really get you hurt. Some of you
guys who've been to Hawaii know what I'm talking about. Can you
imagine telling some local Older Respected Hawaiian to F- -K
OFF? And then call him an OLD MAN? That shit will get your ass kicked,
and then some. Not to mention that you'd never be able to surf there again.
heard through several reliable sources that there have been unacceptable
behavior from the Surfers up North at many different breaks. I'm NOT
saying all Surfers from our Canadian neighbors, just some.
But enough, for me to have to write this.
So here's my advice to the Q-Boys. Lighten up. RESPECT Those
WHO CAME Before You. Be nice and cordial to the Locals. If someone
drops in on you...let it go. There's plenty of waves.
Like the late Duke Kahanamoku used to say:
"Miss a wave? Relax, more wave will come."
And the fashion thing you guys are sporting? My brothers, I don't know
where you guys got the idea to wear surf trunks over your wetsuits, but
it ain't happening. I mean, are you guys kidding me? Hello? Wear the trunks
as is. Please don't put em over yer dam suits! You guys are just asking
for trouble walking around like that.
There's an old saying..."When In Rome, do as the Romans".
We don't wear our trunks over our wetsuits.
I went to a party last night for shop owner's Dave and Heather's
baby's first birthday. Veda Day turned 1. I was blown away by
the next generation of young kids that are being brought up in our Surf
Community. And there's more coming. Kids being born and adopted, while
being raised in a warm and healthy surf environment. It's great. In
fact, my buddy Joe Carter should be a new daddy any day now.
It's good to see the spark of life in the kids eyes and the new parents.
It is like they say, ALL GOOD.
of kids. How come none of you new surf parents have not named any of
your kids after Tropical Storms and Hurricanes? I mean come on! Hurricane
names are great. Take my oldest daughter for instance, Gabrielle.
My wife and I found out she was expecting in 1989 during Hurricane
Gabrielle. I said to my wife, "If this baby is a girl, we'll
name her Gabrielle." You mean to say there's no baby Florence's
out there? Come on people, let's appease the surf Gods and start naming
your babies and pets after these storms. Can I get a Gordon child
or Setter? Or a Helene Kitty or little girl? Or an Ernesto?
Beryl? Those are cool names...don't let em slip by. Name your next
pet or child after one of these storms. You'll be glad you did.
Local Surf Photog Chris Shipley has some of his photos currently
on display at Cafe Fresca in Hampton that are part of
a project called 41 Degrees Seascapes of the North Atlantic.
All the images were shot from Jan. 06 through March 06 on a couple
different housed U/W cameras including one mounted on a longboard fired
with a wireless remote. The idea from the project stemmed from Chris's
years of surfing and wanting to capture some of what he was seeing on
film.Wine and Cheese opening on Sept. 21 from 5-8pm. Check it
out and let Chris know what you think. The show will run for
about a month.
The Patriots won their second consecutive game. They beat the
J-E-T-S by a score of 24-17. After being up 24-0.
They had the game in the bag. And then, we were all reminded, that the
game of Football is 60 minutes long. Sure enough, the dam JETS
came back with 17 unanswered points. And me and my friends started
twisting in the wind. It's too dam early in the season to get uptight
during games...but it's too late. I'm a fan. I'm hooked and cooked.
Thank God the Surf from GORDON today had a lasting affect on
my attitude. The bottom line is, they won. And (sorry to say this kids),
but that's all that really matters. A big Fat "W" in the Win
I shot a lot of footage these past few weeks. I mean I got some good
stuff. And it won't be long before my next movie hits the shops. After
these next two storms run their course, I'll start editing...meanwhile...SUMMER
05 is still in the Shops and available at my other site
I want to thank all of the surfers who took the time to attend the Global
War on Terrorism Monument Dedication on September 11, at
the Legion Hall in Hampton. We had over 500 people
in attendance. Some of the 23 names of the New Hampshire casualties
who are on that stone were surfers. Like Exeter, NH native NAVY
SEAL Dan Healy. Danny surfed here in New Hampshire
and in Hawaii. Thank you for supporting this worthy cause.
Big SHOUT OUT To all the New England Competitors who are
heading down to Cape Hatteras for the 2006 ESA Championships.
REPRESENT New England Y'all!
Rest in Peace Warren Bolster
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace.
Surf For Fun.
P.S. My friends, would you all be so kind
and say a prayer for my Mother this week. Thank you.