I mentioned last week that I would never tire when it comes to the excitement generated by Tropical Storms and Hurricanes. On the other hand, I will also never tire of getting in on the action of a swell that had most of the surf population caught with their pants down. Talking of course about the last day of summer swell on Monday September 22nd, 2014.

The Autumnal Equinox happened at exactly 10:41PM that night.



But during the daylight hours under beautiful sunny skies and a stiff offshore breeze, the New England coast was hit with a perfect well groomed swell, that had every point, reef, and beach break firing on all cylinders. And it all happened on the very last day of Summer.



It was a surprise to say the least. Talk about ending on a good note.

Some would even argue that this swell was better than the Hurricane we had the week prior. And I suppose I would be one of them. After
all Edouard was not exactly the Hurricane to end all Hurricanes. But this no name no hype swell on Monday?

It was pretty damn good.

I can't remember the last time I watched a swell build under sunny skies and offshore winds. Had to have been in Hawaii. And that
would be years ago. many many years ago.

But that's what this swell did. It got bigger and bigger with each pulse.

I can't tell you how many people said to me "where did this come from?" I would look at them and point out to sea. After all, where else would waves come from?

All kidding aside I just so happened to see the weather the night before and the weatherman on one of the local Boston stations pointed out this huge ocean storm. It stopped me in my tracks. I knew right then and there we would have waves the next morning. But I was only partly right.

Because it was small from 8:00AM to 10:00AM.

But and hour after...oh boy, all bets were off. It was here. I mean it was the real deal. It was not only overhead but it was hollow and perfectly lined up. I sent out a series of text messages to some close friends and called others who do not text. They were all surprised. Ha!



As you can see, it was pretty damn good. But as good as it was it was made even better due to the fact that the crowds were not on it. So those who stumbled upon it got some really nice waves and enjoyed the minimal crowds. For it being the last day of summer? It could not have ended any better.

I even swam out at dusk to shoot from the water.



I took my GoPro and got some interesting color and action clips. I also used fins for the first time in about 10 years. For some stubborn reason, known only to me, I refused to use fins when shooting from the water. Well, I admit. I was stupid and stubborn.



Speaking of stupid. This is Johnny Meehan getting a little too close for comfort. Now why does he have to be so hurtful? Actually I was laughing my head off when he sprayed me. It was pretty funny. But back to the fins. They really helped me out there.

I will never shoot from the water again without the use of fins.

It just made it so much more manageable. See, I can change. I'm not the old dog you can't teach new tricks too. I am capable of learning. Just a little stubborn.

Speaking of surf ...you all know that the very next day was the first day of fall and you just knew there was still a bump out there. Actually it was more than just a bump. It was fun. Still warm. Still off shore, and believe it or not, still uncrowded.



The photo above was taken at the Wall on 9/23/14.

October is coming...she'll be here Wednesday . And I will be in heaven. Love New England in the Fall. I love it.

"Surfing No Name Storms and October Heals All Wounds"