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September
28, 2008 The references to the infamous, October 30, 1991 Halloween Swell that was dubbed the "Perfect Storm" and as you all know by now, later became the Huge Hollywood movie blockbuster of the same name, starring George Clooney and company were numerous. Dam that was a long sentence. Any ways, yes
we had a Nor'easter and yes we had a Hurricane (Kyle).
But the two did not marry and spawn a devil child, subtropical, ass
kicking swell machine like it did back in 1991. Hardly. But it
did give us waves from late Thursday right through today. And
it looks like we have a shitload more surf heading our way before this
thing finally slams into Last week I counted over 300 people in the water, and this week there were under a 100. You know, I can't believe I'm even writing this shit. Since when is under a 100 people in the water not crowded? Dam times have changed. So how about Hurricane Kyle? Not bad. And like I said, I believe the best is yet to come. Unless my astute (gut feeling) calculations are off. And lord knows, it would not have been the first time. I guess the
most surprising thing about this latest swell is the fact that it's still
warm. I mean the water temps. Actually, the humidity felt tropical as well.
It was steamy and humid there for a while. Hell, I even turned on the AC
again. And why not? It felt like I'd say it was quite thick. Pea Soup Fog conditions. But dam, that water was warm. I wore my 2mil and no boots or gloves. The longer I can prolong the additional rubber, the happier I am. It won't be long before the 3mil goes on and then the 4/3 with Boots and Gloves and finally the big thick ass 5/4/3. Oh man, I'm not looking forward to that. But I know it's coming. I just wish it would slow down a bit. Please? Oh and I hope you all are aware that the last 3 swells have all hit on the weekend. Someone must be watching over us. Or over you guys. I can sneak away during the week due to my flexible work schedule and close proximity to our playground. And honestly, I've felt guilty about scoring waves, while a great deal of you have to work. I just work weird hours. And it's not uncommon for me to work into the wee hours of the night. Case in point. I'm doing exactly that right now. I'm writing my column and it's late. But if I don't do it now it might not get done until tomorrow and all you Monday Morning Pic of the Week fans will be pissed. And I wouldn't want that. Believe it or not, I look forward to seeing the pics myself every Monday Morning. Hey does that make me a Ralph's Pic of the Week Fan? Man, I'm losing it. It's getting late. . |
I experienced a sad moment for myself this week. And it caught me by surprise. I was driving down the street to catch some waves. I had my board on the roof. Clearly anyone who knows anything about surfing and our lifestyle would recognize me for what I am. A surfer. Heading in
the opposite direction was another surfer. Board on the roof and heading out
of town. Two surfers passing each other along Rte 27 in Hampton,
"Yea?" you're thinking "so what? " Well, our eyes locked
on each other for a split second. Clearly, we saw that each of us recognized
the other as a surfer. You know, a fellow tribe member. What happened? Well the crowds didn't help. Hell all the shit we've talked about in the last 20 years didn't help. We have become more jaded. More protective. More isolated, even though we have become more populated. I find it such a rewarding feeling to go out of my way to say hi to total strangers in the water. I like the semi surprise look on their faces when I do. No I'm not getting soft in my older age. I guess if anything, I'm trying to reconnect with a part of my past. Our past. When surfers actually liked one another. That doesn't mean you can start taking waves from me or park in my favorite spot. It just means that maybe we should wave a bit more when we drive by each other. Smile a little more. Tolerate each other. Although my son has said that people have waved at me when we drive by and I don't wave back. That's because I can't see anymore and I honestly didn't recognize them. But I'm not talking about driving by people I know. I'm talking about the average Joe Blow Surfer who you don't know from Adam. Those guys. A fellow tribesman. Who knows, the surfer you wave at might end up doing something nice for you someday. Or he/she could be some wacky Howard Hughes type looney bird, looking to give away a few million dollars to the next stranger who waves at him. Now wouldn't that be a story?. Man it's really late. I'm getting loopy here. So the Patriots are fixing the holes in the dike while your Red Sox have made the Play-Offs as a Wild Card team. Their season continues. And October is a great month for Baseball. Especially if our boys are into the post season. Which they are. Now if the Pats can shore up their defense and Matt Cassel can pull it together and find Randy Moss, we should have a fun Fall. Local
Remember
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds.... |
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Yesterday-October
30, 1991 The Perfect Storm
(Above)
Mikey Evans on a nice glassy right at the Wall.
2008
Today-New
(Above)
Brian went south of the border today. Here's a sneak preview of what
he got.
Today 2008 PARTING SHOT- How To Pop an AIR!
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