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Got
good surf pics? Send em off to me directly. (See link below) Just make sure they're 650-700 pixels wide. NO bigger NO smaller. In fact if you have any questions about the size, email me first and I'll write back. Start shooting crackie!! Ralph's Pic Of The Week |
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If you want to access the Pic of the week from past weeks click here. Archives |
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September
21st, 2008 I do hope that none of you lost your shirt. Then, the bitter brisk chill on Friday only added to the chaos. From the Freddie Mac, Fannie May and the Lehman Bros turmoil to the newly wind swell on Saturday that lasted into today. But with that swell brought record crowds. Now,
I really can't complain about crowds, seeing how I am part of the problem.
This weekly column/blog feeds into the masses as much as the other guilty
parties. So, I really have no business bitching to you guys. However,
I was out early Saturday morning and I was riding my new shortboard.
The "Magic" board I wrote about last week. I was stoked to have
surf again and although my inner gut feeling said this day was not for
that particular board, I threw caution to the wind and paddled out on
it anyway. Turns out, my gut feeling was right. The waves were waist to
bellybutton high, but they were weak. And weak is not what that board
is all about. That being a longboard. I was so frustrated that only those of you who ride shortboards can relate to. When every single person sitting out in the line-up is on a longboard it just makes for slim pickings. I realized (albeit too late) the reason why we ride longboards round these parts. You catch waves easier when the waves are gutless. And
trust me. The waves were gutless yesterday and today. But I'm getting
ahead of myself here. Back to yesterday. So I'm sitting there, or rather,
I am paddling all over the place, trying to snag a peak before someone
else does. Or to be more specific, a longboarder. And where I was surfing, there were a couple of kayakers. Now for the record, I really don't care what anyone rides. It's none of my business. Longboard, shortboard, boogieboard, Stand Up Paddle Board and yes...the Kayak. I don't care. Whatever floats your boat. I do care if you are getting more than your share of waves and not willing or conscious enough of giving any up for anyone else. Case in point. Saturday morning. I was sitting there watching these two kayakers get wave after wave. A nice set loomed on the horizon and the first Yakker got a wave and the second Yakker paddled for a wave. And much to my surprise, there was a third wave. My wave. And it was bigger and better than the first two. I paddle for it and catch it with surprising ease and make a few turns as I head into the inside section. I think you all know where this is going. I get to the inside section and the Yakker who went for the second wave decided that he is going to catch my wave as well. I did the proverbial..."Hey hey hey HEY!" But it was all to no avail. He dropped in on me, and I had to straighten out. I was admittedly pissed. "What the...?" The guy, who was probably in his twenties, looks at me and says...'You do NOT own this wave!" I detected an accent. But honestly my friends, he could of been from NH, Maine, or Mass and I would of been just as upset. "I do own the wave." I said. "I bought it back in 1964, and I'm still making payments on it." At that point, his partner yells over to me. "I don't think he understands the rules, I will tell him." I shake my head in acknowledgment. Maybe he's gonna figure it out before the day is through. I hope so. Meanwhile, I'm thinking that some of the Magic in my 'magic board' has evaporated. I cursed myself under my breath.. The crowds today were just as bad. Except today, I had the board of length. And even though it was crowded, I was able to snag a few good waves. And I might add, I gave up a few nice ones to some shortboarders. Why not? It's the least any longboarder can do. Take a few, and give up a few. You know, The Yin and the Yang of surfing in a crowd. And although I did not ride my fave new board, I did have a good time. I think everyone who was out there with me will attest to that. There were almost enough waves to go around for everyone. Almost.
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Although I did have one tense moment. I was paddling back out into the lineup when a chest high set came in. As I was preparing to duck dive through them, I noticed a beginner paddling harder than anyone has ever paddled before. He was determined to catch this wave. The only problem was, the wave had broken about a minute before, and so he was in all actuality, paddling for the white water. And, I was directly in his path. There was no time to yell out a warning. Besides I don't think he would of understood the reason for a yell. No, I had a split second to push my board under his board and dive for the bottom. Somehow I popped up unscathed. But I was tangled in my own leash. And my ear plug had popped out. As I was trying to put it back in, a second wave hit me and I lost the plugs. They are the clear "Doc Plugs" and so it's virtually impossible to see them in the water. But I can't surf without them. So I began my search. My buddy Skip was heading in and asked what I was doing. When I told him he laughed and shook his head. Now I knew it was like looking for a needle in a haystack. After all, the doc plugs are clear. I knew it was hopeless. But I searched anyway. And just when I was about to give up I looked in the sand about 20 yards away and spotted them. I hooted and yelled to Skip who hooted back. Life was good again. Then I went home and watched the Patriots game. And just as quickly, life was a topsy turvy mess. Look, I have mentioned several times over the last few months, that I am not over the loss we suffered during the Superbowl. That game took so much out of me. And I know it took a lot out of you other Pats fans. And I also know, that if we were still hurting from it, the players and the coaches had to still be stinging from it. Sunday's game was proof of that. Losing Tom Brady the first game of the year was the final nail in the coffin. Yes I said that Cassel had a chance and that the defense would come together, as would our running game. And of course there's the Belichick factor. And no self respecting Pats fan would argue that we would beat the Dolphins today. And not just beat them, but have a field day with them. Today was supposed to be the day that Cassell and Moss started their love relationship while a jealous Tom Brady would be steaming mad at home. Only to have Giselle rub his sore knee and tell him how handsome he was cooing "Don't worry Tommy, they will all welcome you back next year." Well, none of that happened. Someone forgot to tell the Dolphins that they sucked and that they were supposed to lose. Well, at least we can stop stressing over the "Perfect Season" monkey. The Bills, Cowboys and the Giants are 3-0 and there might be another team or two. But your New England Patriots are 2-1. And things look bleak. Oh well, it's only a game. Besides, there was surf today. So whenever there's surf on a Sunday and the Pats are playing...you know where I'll be. Surfing with 300 of my close friends. Hey last night I saw some serious talent. The Makaha Sons were in Exeter and they put on a hell of a show. Credit Rick Savastano for bringing these talented musicians and recording artists back to NH. The Makaha Sons always bring some super talent with them. And last night was no different. Guitar virtuoso Barry Kimokeo blew everyone's mind with his mind numbing playing. Really a pleasure to listen and watch these talented musicians. Daniel Ho was also a treat with his Slack Key guitar playing and his ukulele soloing. And of course local vocalist Margo Reola brought the house down. So a big "Mahalo My brothers" to the Savastanos and the Makaha Sons. On a serious note. Last night's proceeds (or a portion of it) went to benefit the Peasegreeters. They are a non profit organization that is made up of war Veterans and civilians who greet every flight to and from the Global war on Terrorism. Having been to many of them myself, I can tell you all first hand that it is right on par with what we did with the Wounded Warriors project this summer. Truly a rewarding experience that everyone should try. These men and women don't just say they support the troops they actually TELL The troops how much they support them. Go to Peasegreeters.org and find out when the next flight is either leaving or coming home. Local Rye NH surfer transplant Oakley Clark wants all you NH surfers and beyond to know that he is working with a a surf film festival in New York at the the end of this month. You can find out more info at the www.nysurffilm.com. website.
Remember
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
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Yesterday-Summer
1985-
Jacko on the Hansen 50-50
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