sorry. I mentioned the word "consistent"
last week and then...BAM! It came back and bit me in the
butt. Talk about Karma or Jinxing. Sorry. But truth be told, I saw that
system that was supposed to give us surf this weekend, and I had a feeling
it would go by too quick. Not to mention, them Hard Offshore winds that
blew on Friday. There was no chance for a swell to make it to our
sunny shores on Saturday. I guess the Southern New England
crew had some surf on Friday...even they got skunked on Saturday.
And how about that wind? Dam. That wind was Howling For It's Darling!
If that didn't shake the cobwebs loose from those dusty 4/3's nothing
will. Oh yea baby, that shit was 4/3 weather all the way. Including
pulling the gloves on. And you all know, once them gloves go on around
here...them dam hoods can't be that far behind.
have friends who actually enjoy surfing with booties on. And, I have a
few who enjoy the gloves too. I don't know many who actually enjoy wearing
a hood though. Don't get me wrong. We all need a hood in the Winter. And,
I guess, I can see the benefit of having extra paddling power with gloves.
But the booties? Actually, I guess I can see that too. You know, especially
over rocky type reef breaks. Them booties will save you every time.
But, when I think of surfing in all it's purity. I think of trunks, and
maybe a rash guard. But clearly, sans wetsuits. Especially on the extremities,
like hands and feet. And, even though we spend the majority of our water
time in rubber. We do get the luxury of surfing without any rubber, a
few times a year.
And that's New England at it's best.
our world class surf in just our trunks. Those are the moments that we
all live for. Yea, we can take it all. The good and the bad. The cold
and the big days. The snow and ice. But, it's those warm, late, Indian
Summer days, with those well groomed tropical swells casting in perfect
lined up surf from Maine to RI that makes it all worth while.
we had more days like it.
I've mentioned this in the past, and it's almost worth repeating here
again to just put things into perspective. My friends in Central Cal
surf in 4/3 wetsuits all year long. Think about that. A 4/3
all year. Would you rather surf in a 4/3 year round, or get the
full spectrum of weather and conditions that we get? I'll take our situation
any day. Those few, fleeting moments, when we're surfing in just our trunks,
well, it's all worth it.
with trudging through the snow to get to the surf. You kidding me? That's
surfing New England Style. We get it all. We just don't get enough
of the warmer days. But it's those crisp Fall Days, those freezing Winter
Days and those truly warm Summer Days that keep most of us longing for
this unique spot we call home.
I know there are quite a few of you transplants out there who know exactly
what I'm talking about.
I'm talking about your home in New England.
A bunch of us attended Bill Kennedy's Memorial Service this week.
Bill owned and operated KENNEDY'S Restaurant for 53 years.
He was an icon on North Beach. Dave Cropper shared a funny
story with me. He said he knew Bill for about 5 years
before Bill finally realized that Dave's name was not
Red. For those who don't know...Dave has Red hair.
Hell, you all knew that. Didn't you?
Speaking of Cinnamon Rainbows surfers. A big shout out goes to
Dougie "Fresh" Wright for his photo in the new ESM
that just came out. It's an action JOHN CARDEN photo of Dougie
busting an air. Good on you Douglas...just one question though...did
you land it? Not that it matters. I bet half the AIR photos we all see
in the mags are complete failures. That's the beauty of Still photography.
Your imagination takes over. Where as, my video footage tells the truth.
What you see is what happens. Or, what does NOT happen.
Good shot Doug and John.
Speaking of stills. I have an image in my mind from the most recent
Columbus Day Swell that is still embedded in there. I was paddling
out late in the day, when I saw young 7yr old Kai Nichols take
off on a 4' right hander, and get this complete stand-up barrel for
one fleeting second, before he self ejected himself into the face. I
mean if I had a camera, I could of taken this cool shot of Kai
standing in this wide open barrel. Granted he freaked and jumped off
his board. I mean what 7yr old wouldn't? But for that one moment,
I saw the future of this young kid and I hooted for all I was worth.
He came up laughing. And I don't think he knew the scope of what he
had accomplished. I'm not sure if his sister Nohea saw it, or
Steve Rafferty who was also there, saw it. I do know, his dad
Lenny was sitting outside looking towards shore, wondering what
all the hooting was all about. When Lenny heard me mention"Like
Backdoor" he broke out in a wide grin. Hell, what dad wouldn't?
Speaking of amazing feats. How about that Kelly Slater?
I mean you don't have to be a contest surfer to appreciate what
he's accomplished. 8 World Titles. I mean...hello? He's an
East Coast guy. You all know his story. Florida Grom who
ruled the ESA scene then burst out into the Pro circuit and,
the rest as they say, is history. Congrats Kelly you freak. You
In Peace Mrs Daly. Our old friend Charlie Daly's mother passed
away this past week. Charlie as some of you may know, is old
time local Surfer who used to surf here and then moved out to the
West Coast. I still see Charlie every now and then and we
have shared a few waves in our day. Our heartfelt condolences go out
to Charlie and his wife Sunny and the whole Daly
The Patriots beat Buffalo Today. 28-6. They looked
good. Their record is 5-1...but the season is just getting going.
I posted this petition about the Sea Wall
at North Beach in Hampton. Check it out and sign it.
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.