had, what was more than likely, the most bizarre Surf Dream I've ever
had in my life, early one morning this past week. Now, before I tell you
all about it, remember this, it's a dream. This is not real.
And, if you've never had a surf dream...well, I don't know what to tell
you. I feel bad for you. I guess I've had surf related dreams since I
started surfing. But the other night's dream?
Whoa. It was wacked.
Check it out. I'm sitting way outside waiting for what is apparently my
last wave. There's a long rock jetty to my left, and the beach is short,
with very high sand dunes. I don't know where it is. It looks only vaguely
familiar. Like a cross between Cali and Cape Cod...or is
it Hatteras? I don't know. It's a dream. I am however, in a full
suit, though I'm not wearing boots or gloves. Suddenly, a wave appears
on the horizon. It's a nice left. Looks like it's 6-8' and just
lined up perfect.
I spin and paddle and it is at this moment, that I realize, that the board
I'm paddling is, a short (6' or under) flex board. Yes, I said flex, as
This thing couldn't be more than a half inch thick, and it is flapping
as I paddle. Somehow, I catch the wave and make a late drop and then slip
into this perfect hollow section. The wave is winding over my head, and
I subtly apply the brakes, and get completely barreled. I mean, I am inside
this hollow, gaping perfect hole. Encased.
Now for the really weird part.
I reach down, and pull the board out from under my feet! Huh? That's right.
I pull the board out from under my feet. I now end up planing on the surface
of the wave on my bare feet! I'm holding the flex board in my outstretched
hand, as I plane along on my feet.
in the barrel.
Someone paddles by me and hoots. In fact, he stops paddling, and sits
up on his board, on the shoulder, to watch this strange scene. Somehow,
I am unfazed by all of this. Like I've done this before. I am digging
the sensation of the water rushing by under my feet as I continue my Tube
Journey. Seeing the the hollow section shutting down up ahead, I place
the flexi board back under my feet, as I exit the barrel and turn towards
the right. I am now parallel with the shoreline.
I remember thinking..."This would be the perfect time to pull the
flexi board back out." So I did. Now I'm planning along on my bare
feet just a few feet from the shore. I remembered, trying to get as close
to the beach as I could, so I could just step off and walk up and on the
sand. When I saw my spot, I did just that. I exited the ocean without
skipping a beat.
It was beyond cool.
I walked up the steep sand dune, there was some guy squatting down with
his board on his lap."Dude that was so radical." I just looked
at him and smiled. I nodded like it was no big deal. Are you shitting
me? No big deal? Man, that was the most wacked thing I've ever done in
my whole surfing life!
Then I woke up. Dam. I tried to get back to the dream but it was no use.
I was clear of that wild fantasy world and back to my own reality. The
kids were all running through the house and my wife was getting ready
for work. Man...if only I could get back to that dream.
I called my son Mackey into my room to tell him all about my dream,
but he could care less. "Dad I'm late for school. I don't have
time for this right now." I laid there in bed and shook my head
and just smiled. It was such a cool feeling, and it felt so real. A surf
I was so stoked. Even if it, never really happened.
But it did happen...in my dreams. And that has to count for something.
Doesn't it? I think so.
biggest game of the NFL season is tonight. The Pats vs the
Colts. Now looky here all you New England Football Fans,
this is big. Real Big. So I have another dream scenario.
Why the hell not? Let's look at this week's column as, my dream column.
My dream game scenario goes something like this. It's 17-17 late
in the 4th quarter. With 1:53 left in the game. Indy
has the ball and drives down to the Pats 37 yard line. It's 4th
and 5 for a first down. The Colts don't trust Manning
to move the ball 5 yards so Adam gets the call.
Ole Number 4 comes out and attempts a 47 yarder at his old home
field. The crowd is going crazy. It's louder than it's ever been in
Foxboro. Adam tries to shut out the noise. He steps up and
paces off his mark and gets the snap...he steps into the kick, like
he has a hundred times before, and...shanks it!
The crowd goes ballistic! So do all of us at home! For some reason,
Manning does not run the clock down before the kick, and the
Pats with 47 seconds left, gets the ball back and proceeds
to drive the ball down to the Colts 39 yard line. With 8 seconds
on the clock Goskowski comes out and kicks a 49 yard FG
to win the game. Thus killing the ghost of both Vinatieri and
himself. And that my little NFL New England Football friends,
is my Dream scenario.
Of course I know this is BS, and I will accept any kind of victory.
But wouldn't that be a story? Hell yes it would!
week I mentioned the movie
"Flags Of Our Fathers" . I still recommend you see
it. It's directed by Clint Eastwood and based on the book by
James Bradley.The story is about the 6 Marine Flag raisers
who fought on the island of IWO JIMA. See the movie.
This coming weekend is also Veterans Day. If you know a Vet
or are related to one, call them, or drop by and say hello and then
say Thank You. I know most of you already know this. But, we owe our
Veterans so much. Especially this thing we all enjoy, called
Surfing. Thank a Vet. What harm could that do? You'll feel good,
and so will the Vet.
Unless your John Kerry...(had to sneak that one in). I'm sorry,
but that bonehead Senator from Massachusetts just shot
himself in the foot for the last time. To insult the men and women in
uniform who are in harms way is just beyond belief. I mean come on John.
He's been insulting Veterans since 1971. This last one
has finally sealed his fate. He will never be President. Ever. And he
can thank himself for that.
Go out and Vote on Tuesday November 7th.
Speaking of movies...Go See the movie BORAT. I have to say, there's
been a few of us who have followed comic Sacha Cohen for the
last 5 or 6 years and we can't get enough of this guy. All three of
his characters on the Ali G show on HBO have been nothing
short of hilarious and I'm convinced he is a comedic genius. Don't know
what I'm talking about? My friends you need to get out more. There's
a big world out there, and BORAT will put a smile on your face.
Unless you have NO sense of humor. Jacko, Terrance, Chris Valhouli,
Mark Saracusa, and a handful of others love this guy. BORAT
is hands down, the funniest character to grace our TV sets in the last
dozen or so years. I have not yet seen the movie, but I plan to. And
I KNOW it will be funny, and I will laugh myself silly.
Silly I tell ya.
The LOST TOBEY BOARD FROM LAST WEEK IS STILL MISSING. * The board
is a 6"0" Byrne. Pintail, with glassed in fins. Red rails,
red bottom with an all white deck. If you see it, please get the
license plate number of the vehicle and call the Police. Or get one
of us. And we'll deal with the scumbag ourselves. Stealing Surfboards
will not be tolerated. Stealing a wave or two...we'll let you slide.
But stealing a surfboard and someone's cash? No sir. We draw the line
right here. We're looking for you.
Happy 231st Marine Corps Birthday to all my Marine brothers
and sisters. Thank you all Veterans.
Just heard Saddam Hussein was found guilty and got the Death
Penalty (by hanging). Yikes. Anybody got extra tickets to that? Give
me a call if you do.
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.