November 12, 2006
you. Thank who? The Veterans of course. The swell we just had on
November 9, 10 and 11th, will go down as the Veterans Day Swell
Amazing waves if you got any.
Actually, the better of the 3 day swell for me was Friday, November
10th. The US Marine Corps Birthday. The Marines were
231 years old on Friday. I thought about some of my Marine
friends I've known over the years. Some still here, some are long gone.
I thought about the irony of the Marines hitting the beach at places
like Iwo Jima during WWII, Inchon in Korea and DaNang in Vietnam.
I thought about the Marines today in the sand of Iraq The
irony of the Marines and their role on the beach and sand has not
gotten by me.
should it get by you.
The Waves we got on Friday, November 10 came courtesy of the US
MARINES. My brothers and sisters in arms. I knew some Marines
who surfed, who no longer can. I knew some Marines who watched
their friends die on the beach. Think about that. Dying on the beach.
Oh yea, it happened by the thousands. 1,000 Marines died on the
beach at Iwo Jima the first day.
The Waves we got on all 3 days came courtesy of the US VETERANS.
There's not a Veterans Day, that has come and gone, in the last
6 years, that I don't miss my own father. Same with my uncles. I miss
them all. My Father-in-law is gone now too. That's why I keep hammering
home to you guys the importance of calling your parents, grandparents
and other relatives on this day. I'm thankful and lucky that I still have
my Step-Father-in-law. He's a great guy and a proud Veteran.
Two regular contributing photographers to this page are Veterans.
Ed O'Connell and John Carden.
Thank you both for your service.
I'd like to take this time, to say thank you to all of you who emailed
me, called me, and stopped by to say Thanks. It means a lot to me. I also
hope some of you took the time to call the Veteran in your family
to thank them this weekend. I really do hope you did that. There's a lot
of personal family history in each and every one of your lives, and you
should take the time to research it. If you have any living Veterans
in your family, you really should put a smile on their face.
And you don't have to wait until Veterans Day to do it.
So Thank you all again for your kind words and your unending support.
I am very lucky to have such good friends who understand the meaning of
days like November 11th. Thank you all again.
I won't forget.
The Pats vs the Jets. They lost. Yes...they lost. 17-14.
They played like the weather today. Cold wet and drizzling. I mean it
was BAD. Very bad. After losing last week to the COLTS you'd think
they'd come back and smoke this team. Instead they shoot themselves in
the foot again. Hell, they shot themselves in both feet.
The fans in Patriots Nation have become alarmed, and for good reason.
Ladies and Gentlemen these are NOT your New England Patriots of
recent years. I hate to say this but, Tom Brady did NOT look good.
He's just not looking like the Tom Brady we all know.
What the hell is going on?
I apologize to all of you who could care less about the Patriots.
I know this is a Surf Column. But it's a New England surf column
and I've got to talk about our winning sports teams. If we have any. Right
now, all we have is the Patriots. But they are looking very suspect,
so I might be looking for something else to touch about. Any suggestions?
of Bad News. We've had another case of some PUNK ASS CRIMINALS stealing
from some local Surfers. Look, I don't pretend to understand what it's
like to be a Criminal, or a Junky, or some other misfit freaking head
case but. I do know what it's like to be PISSED OFF and that's where
we are at TODAY. I say WE because we are all affected by this petty
ass shit. The latest crime happened Saturday Night at 8th Street
(North Beach) in Hampton. Apparently, a young married (Surfer) couple
were stopping in to pick up their young baby from the baby sitters,
when these LOW-LIFE PUNK ASSES decided to break into their vehicle and
steal a purse and money. Inside the purse was all kinds of personal
information and credit cards and other legal documents. This is Bull
Shit! The vehicle was a 4 door WHITE SEDAN with MASS PLATES.
Two white males were the culprits. If you spot this vehicle in the vicinity
of North Beach call the POLICE or get a LICENSE PLATE Number.
I remember how angry I was when my friend Joe Carter got all
his gear ripped off in New York. I also remember thinking how
that would NEVER happen up here. Guess what? That's not true any more.
LOCK YOUR VEHICLE even if it's just a short stop to check the
Going to See BORAT tonight. I'll let you know what I think next
week. I need some comic relief after that game and the news about this
Our prayers and thoughts are with John Bocko this week and JG.
Be strong boys and keep your faith in the things that are important.
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.