Got good surf pics?
something unexpected happened.
So what's the name?
asked kids. It's called "GREETING SEASONS" Yes it's
a play on words, and if I might be so bold to add, it is what we call
in the business, good timing. Being the Holiday season and all. But
if you think about it for just a minute or two. New England has
four distinct seasons. Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall. And we welcome
each season with open arms and open barrels. And it is the perfect follow
up to North By Northeast my last movie. I had to go this route.
can you get it? Another good question. Sunday December 7th a
Day That Will Live in Surfology. It will be in the shops on this
day. Did I pick this date for a reason? Hell yes I did. And if you don't
know the history of this particular date, I can't help you. But if you
have parents, or grandparents, or great grand parents who were around
in December of 1941 you know.
I Hope that you get through the Holidays.
I mean what I say when I write that "Surfing heals all wounds." It may not get you rich. It may not bring back a loved one. It may not make you healthy. But it can, help ease the pain. Each wave and each ride can (if you let it) cleanse your soul. Let that wave wash over you, and help with the healing.
If you have a problem with alcohol or drugs. Let surfing be your new crutch. Let the high of surfing be that new buzz you seek. It's easy to drown your sorrows, and numb your pain during the holidays with alcohol and drugs. That's easy to do. The hard way is putting all that aside and facing the situation with a clear mind.
No one said it was going to be easy.
of something bigger in your life is another. Some find solace in God
and religion. Whatever works. I just know, that as surfers, we have
already discovered the healing lotion, with the motion of the ocean.
know. I just wrote it down and it seemed to flow...wait, there I go
again. Look, if you are depressed you should seek professional help.
Or the very least, talk to friends and loved
There's something magical about surfing. And we all share that magic. Even when we're yelling at each other. In between the drop-ins and crowded conditions, we all still manage to tap into that magic. And really, how wonderful and beautiful is that?
Lucky for all of us, there might be waves over the Thanksgiving Holiday. How do I know that? Well, I don't know for sure. But I do know this. We're (my family) going to be 11 hours from the coast. That's almost a guarantee there's going to be surf.
you can thank Max and I by giving us a wave, the next time we're
out somewhere. We are the sacrificial lambs. And you know what? I'm
good with that. If you were to all score great waves while Max
and I are away...well, I say, that's great. That's the spirit of Thanksgiving.
Be Happy with what we have.
For those of us who keep tabs on what's happening in the BIGGER surf world. I can't help but marvel at Kelly Slater's latest accomplishment. 9 World Titles. That's insane. That's like Tiger Woods stuff. 9 World titles? The guy's unbelievable. I mean how old is he? Is he 40? Older? Does it make a difference? The guy can surf circles around everyone. I know I gave him major props when he won his 8th title, but this is freaking nuts! And if he has 9 he has to...he has to...you know where I'm going here kids.
He has to go for 10!
He must. And he should. And he should have to earn it, like he did the first 9.
I know I've said this before, but it really needs repeating. Kelly Slater started his competitive career in the ESA. Yes the same ESA that competes at the wall each summer and fall and up at Long Sands in York. The same ESA that has hosted the NE Regionals here in Hampton and on the Jersey shore and Long Island. The same ESA that competes each year on Cape Hatteras. Kelly Slater is from Florida.
The 9 time world champion is from Florida.
Kevin Grondin telling me about this kid from Florida who
was turning heads in Hatteras back in the 80's. I remember
Kevin's eyes during this conversation. Like he had seen something
very special in it's infant stages. And he had. Anyone who saw the young
Kelly Slater come up through the ranks of Cape Hatteras
during those times were witnessing history. Surf history. Like seeing
a young Tiger Woods.
So is the next Kelly Slater here in Northern New England? Probably not. But Lenny Nichols and his NNE ESA district are the same ESA that produced Kelly. I'm saying this for all of you who might not think that favorable of the ESA. Because there can no denying, that Kelly Slater is the cats meow.
Say what you want about contests, but you can't say anything bad about what Kelly Slater has accomplished. For surfing in general, but more specifically, the East Coast. That's all of us..
Well..how about them dam Patriots? Whoa that was one hell of a game today against the Dolphins. If you missed it, you missed a good one. Back and forth all day long. It was a good NFL game to watch, even if you had nothing invested in either team. It was a fun Sunday afternoon of NFL.
And the more I watch Matt Cassell throwing the football the more I like this kid. And the man can also run with a football. Something Tommy boy could not do very well.Cassell is on fire. But then again,so are the JETS. They beat the undefeated TITANS today.
The DOLPHINS can rest easy again.
Their undefeated season record is still intact for another season. And honestly, I say Thank God to that. That whole undefeated BS from last year is still a sore spot with a lot of fans. Myself included. I never got over it. But I must say, I like this team. They are just good enough to keep things exciting.
The underdogs. I love it.
Our best shot at the play-offs are a Wild Card slot. But that suits me just fine. I like the team enough not to get crazy when they mess up, but still into them when they do something good. I wonder how Tom Brady is handling all of this? Some of those catches that Randy Moss made today were nuts. Max and I were hooting and jumping around like fans. It was good to be back. Back on the Patriots bus.
Have you guys seen or heard about them wacky Somalia Pirates? I mean are you kidding me? These dudes are boarding ships and taking hostages and getting ransom money every other week. What the hell? How is this possible in this day and age. Modern day Pirates. Scoundrels all of them. Low life hoodlums. They should all be tarred and feathered. Or made to walk the plank. Where's Peter Pan when you need him? No not Pan from Rhode Island...the cartoon dude. You know the guy dressed in green and hangs around with Tinkerbell...nevermind.
forget that "GREETING
SEASONS" comes out on December 7th. And "Groovemasters"
the first ever Longboard ONLY movie from Surf Free Or Die comes
out on Sunday December 21st. The first day of Winter.
is available on myspace.com/qwillmusic
Day Photos from 1986
One of my personal favorites from that day. The Wall Thanksgiving morning
Kevin "Doc" Grondin styling at the Wall Late Sunday afternoon
November 16th, 2008.
Kevin has always had a liking for colorful boards. Late Sunday afternoon
November 16th, 2008.
2008 Today-Monday November 17th, 2008
2008 Today-More from Last Week in Florida November -2008
2008 Today-Surf Scenes from The West Coast, Panama and Hawaii
Kyle Howard moved to California a few years ago. He's happy with the
move. Brother Corey is
Today 2008 PARTING SHOT- "Surf Van" For Sale