Got
good surf pics? Send em off to me directly. (See link below) Just make sure they're 650-700 pixels wide. NO bigger NO smaller. In fact if you have any questions about the size, email me first and I'll write back. Start shooting crackie!! Ralph Pic Of The Week |
|
If you want to access the Pic of the week from past weeks click here. Archives |
May
18th, 2008 So
I had to be at my parents house during the early part of this week, and
it just so happened that this new swell that started on Mothers Day was
up and running, and it was firing at some of my oldest, most fondest breaks. So.... I hit it, and hit it hard. It had been a few years since I last paddled out there and honestly, I was a little hesitant because I really didn't want to get into a hassle with anyone. Not that I would of, but you just never know these days. I really wasn't into having to give anyone a history lesson on how long I've been surfing and how I helped pioneer several of the breaks down there. Besides without the two Beauchesne brothers Phil and Arthur helping my cause I didn't want to deal with any potential BS. So I was just kind of being casual out there. Not being aggressive and just kind of feeling the place back out again. I was amazed at how easy it was to slip back into the mode that I needed to be in. It all came back to me in a matter of seconds. Seriously. I was tuned into this spot like I never left it. The only problem was, I was not the same. Oh yea, it's true. Father time has been catching up to me as of late (like it will all of you as well) and I never really felt 100% out there. But I did manage to catch a few set waves and ride them all the way through into the inside section. And I did this in part, due to a couple of locals (who I had last remembered as total groms) but who are now, shop owners and really have stepped it up a few notches, in their overall surfing. The B-House Boys (as I was calling them) Jamie Hosker and Mark Driscoll run the local (Brickhouse) shops down there and have themselves quite a nice little set-up. And like the shop owners around these parts (Dave Cropper & Phil Carey at Cinnamons, Steve O'Hara and Buck Rowley at Pioneers and Mike Paugh at Zapstix) they can both surf their asses off. Look if you run a surf shop or you work at one, you better know a thing or two about surfing. And you dam well better know how to surf. Crop, Stevie, Zappy and the B-House boys can all surf. They practice what they preach. My old spot was working quite nicely for 3-4 consecutive days which in itself is insane, because it really is a winter break only. And here we are smack in the middle of Spring and we are still getting Nor'easters and ground swells that just won't let up. I even brought Mackey V down one day and let him sample the spot that pop cut his teeth on. He had fun and I had fun watching him have fun. I guess it was fun. Anytime I can surf a spot as fickle as that place always is, and get good waves. Well, ole Ralphie is a happy camper. Hell I even went to my parents house and took a shower after my session. It had been years since I did that. So you know that old saying about you can't go home again? Well, I'm here to tell you that you can. I did. I
went home and surfed an old friend, and let me tell you, it felt like
I was with an old friend out there. Those waves have not changed, the
line-up is still the same, only the faces and boards have slightly changed.
|
The Pioneer of Wetsuits passed away at age 92. Rest in peace Hugh, and thanks for keeping us warm. Getting back to this wonderful week of waves. The mid week sessions up here have been all time as well. Wednesday night was so much fun. And hell, I surfed Wednesday afternoon about 3 minutes from where I'm typing this, for 3 hours alone. Now look, I'm not trying to be hurtful (well maybe a little) I'm just trying to convey to you, the incredible streak of luck we've all been blessed with. I surfed perfect waves for 3 hours in total sunny, glassy, head high, to slightly overhead conditions. Alone. It was ridiculous. And later at the Wall, where things were really cooking, Wes Laine and Dave Cropper were out catching some outside sandbar bombs. There was a vibe at the Wall that night, that I had not seen in sometime. How good was this? I mean we all thought, this can't get any better. Then Thursday rolled along. Thursday (late) was one of those sessions that is almost too hard to describe and confirm because there's really NO evidence of what happened out there. But here let me give it a shot and try. All day long the swell was gutless. In other words it appeared to be weakening with every passing hour. The day before was full of power and perfection and it seemed that by Thursday morning it was dissipating. Still, I have mentioned to you all in the past many many times, I have several computers in my office and one is always broadcasting the wave cams. So I was working, and glancing at the monitor, and every now and then it looked "almost worth driving down the street" for a closer look. Max had LAX practice and was due to get out at 5:00PM. Jon Gozzo is one of his coaches and just so happens to be a surfer who's totally dialed into the surf scene. *Jon is also opening up the new Smoothie and Wrap spot called SECRET SPOT right next to 931 Ocean and Cinnamon Rainbows. So when he bugged out of practice without a trace Mackey knew something was up. By the time we go to the Wall at 5PM the swell had (I swear) doubled in size, and had a new pulse that was totally INSANE! Max was out in the water in a flash, and I found myself walking elbow to elbow with Brian Nevins. I looked over at him as we both scanned the horizon and asked..."Hey man is it getting bigger or am I tripping?" "Oh it's bigger all right" he says. And then we both hit the water. Long story short. 100 waves on the head later, we both make it outside and proceed to get waves, that were just so unbelievable that even now, I can't believe it. Yet, it happened. I called Brian into one wave that got so hollow and (he's a big guy) he just disappeared into the belly of that beast, only to emerge 75 yards down the line...stoked out of his mind. It was that kind of night. At one point, the sun came out and created this absolutely beautiful array of color on the wave faces. I was freaking. Why? Because NO ONE was shooting! No Carden, No O'Connell, No Nevins, No Ralph (wait I'm Ralph). Brian pointed to his head and said "Sometimes it's best not to shoot, and to just remember them up here." "Yeah well, you might remember these waves, but my freaking brain won't". Then
we laughed at how many waves landed on our heads and how many great waves
we caught. It's safe to say now, that those waves on Thursday night,
were hard to get into, and even harder to get out of. Please
help out Local Surfer Mike Keefe's Granddaughter and Jacko Keefe's
niece Bella by sponsoring this Fundraiser we would all be grateful.
She's one of those cute triplets that you see walking along the ocean.
Kally's the mom and she did a great piece check this out. Remember
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds.... |