Alberto VO Fly....The first Tropical Storm of the season came and
went so fast that if you didn't get any of it well, you were not alone.
The swell went from ankle high on Thursday at 3:30PM, to
waist high at 5:30PM, to Head High at 8:30PM with an occasional
bigger set. By Friday morning it was back to waist high and by
midday Friday it was long gone...
And that my friends, was all she wrote. I stood there at Wall watching
perfect little A-frames unfold in the waning light and realized
that there was no photographic evidence of this fly by swell. There were
some guys shooting on Friday (John Carden got some beautiful
sunrise shots) but the best of the swell, went and came undocumented.
Yes, I did not shoot. I watched it, but my gear was a mile up the road
and the sun was all but gone. I was bumming for sure.
ALBERTO...why couldn't ya slow down and hang around for a while?
Why'd ya have to buzz by us like we were some kind of a drivethru beach
Why ALBERTO VO FLY...Why?
And the water has warmed up. No Gloves. No boots. Just comfy 3/2's
and plenty of flexibility. It's Summer!
Speaking of Summer, I released my latest movie SUMMER 05.
Click here to see the promo poster.
It's in the Shops and available at my other site
I also included some footage of the Quiksilver Rock Show/Movie
event at the IOKA last July 26, 2005. There's footage of
KING's HIGHWAY and Steve Canty as well as myself (playing
Voodoo Chile). If you were there, you'll remember how dam hot it
was in that sweat box. It was ridiculous.
SUMMER 05 NOW available on DVD in the shops this FATHER's
Last week I mentioned my next movie project (in addition to the ONE
Project) and it's titled B.A.S. (Big Ass Surf) and I will be
showing it in July at the same place I showed the last two...ON
Speaking of the beach. Please PLEASE PLEASE
keep your eyes open for broken glass on the beaches.
I drove by the Wall the other night and saw groups of High School
aged kids (and others) sitting on the Wall drinking and basically
acting their age. I believe they are a non-surfers. Posers who hang at
the Wall but DON'T Surf. I don't have a problem with kids at the beach
at night, I do have a problem with kids breaking bottles on the beach
that we all use. And you should too. .If you know of any of these night
beach parties and you know who's doing this crap...have a talk with them.
Because it's unacceptable. Come to our beach-but Take your trash with
DON'T BREAK BOTTLES ON OUR BEACH! Or else...
it's Father's Day. Each year I write a bit about some of the
dads in the area and this year is no different. There are a few new
dads this year that were not dads last year. Two off the top of my head
are Dave Cropper and Kevin Rafferty. I mention these two
because I saw them both at a local gathering and they had their babies
with them. And them babies were cuter than cute. Veda and Kaylee
were lighting up the room. And so was Anna (but Skip's
been a dad for a while now). The change in both of these men has been
significant. And it's been all good. Being a good dad is a major responsibility.
I've known some great dads in my life. And, I've known a few not so
good ones as well. But the good dads outweigh the bad ones by a mile.
Being a good Surf dad is even better. Now don't get me wrong here, a
good surf dad doesn't really require that pop has to surf. On the contrary,
most good surf dads don't. How's that? Well, all any young surfer really
wants is a dad that understands and supports his or her surfing lifestyle.
You don't have to paddle out with junior at every break. I mean think
about that for a moment. What if every single grom you knew had a dad
that actually surfed with them? What would that line-up be like? I'd
say it sounded congested at best.
Take my dad for instance. He never actually surfed on a surfboard, but
he was instrumental in my surfing lifestyle. He turned me onto Surfing
and he drove me and my friends to the beach every summer looking for
surf. Plus he took movies of us. Oh he was a surf dad alright. Same
with Jack and Mike Keefe's dad. He didn't surf but he
brought those Keefe boys to the beach every summer and introduced
them to the ocean. Mr Keefe was a surf dad.
Then of course there are the dads who actually surf. And that's something
that goes beyond what many of us ever got to experience. A REAL Surf
dad. There's a bunch of them now-a-days. Dads who surf with their kids,
share a bond that should be, by all accounts a lifelong endeavor.
So, if you're a child, or an adult whose dad is still with us pick up
the phone and call him and wish him a Happy Father's Day. Or stop by
and say hello. If your dad is no longer with us, take some time today
to reflect on the good times you did share with him. Think hard and
dig up some old memories and try to remember little details. Because
if you start to forget them, they will truly will be lost forever.
I'll be thinking about my dad who passed away in 2000 and I'll
be thinking about my father-in-law who passed away in October
at the young age of 64. I miss them both and think of them everyday.
Happy Father's Day to all the dads, uncles, and friends who are
just like dads and uncles.
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace.
Surf For Fun.