What a surprise today was. The surf actually came up. And it came up with
conviction. We checked it throughout the day and it slowly but surely
came together this afternoon. Max and I were going back and forth
to the surf and our living room watching the World Cup Soccer Match
between Italy and France. We watched the Italians
beat the French and then went surfing. It was kind of neat watching
the Italians beat the French. And I guess a part of me felt
some kind of ancestral tribal pride. I am after all a descendant of the
Romans. We're all from somewhere outside of these United States.
My family hails from Rome. I guess that's where I got some of my
earlier aggressive attitude from. It's also why I am midly amused watching
the Sopranos. You know in their day, the Romans had quite
a reputation. When those boys came marching into town, it was time to
shut the doors and lock the windows. So, seeing them Italians get
all worked up put a smile on my face. But only for a short period of time.
Why? Because, like most of you, I'm an American. And I'd much rather
see an American team beat any other team on the planet including
the Italians. So I did what most Americans were doing this
afternoon on the seacoast.
I went surfing.
How big was it? Well, that all depends on who you ask. I'd call it by
the body parts. Waist to chest high with an occasional bigger set. And
it was much warmer than last weekend when it was freaking freezing beyond
belief. How cold was it last weekend? How does 48 degrees sound?
Oh yes it was. It was so dam cold, I cut my foot and did not know how
bad it was because my dam feet were like slabs of meat. Cold, Bloody,
slabs of meat.
But the surf today was special. Mostly because it caught everyone off
guard. Max and I surfed with Mattie Evans and his dad Rick
and a handful of strangers. It was weird. I mean not to know anyone around
me. Eventually I started to recognize faces and I can only assume that
the word got out. Cellphones must of been lighting up the local towers,
because it did fill in with a crop of pent up rippers. Funny how surf
can do that to ya. Make you just jump out of your skin with anticipation.
I couldn't paddle fast enough. I wanted to catch everything in sight and
did manage to get a couple of really long rights on my yellow Semper Fi
Longboard. Just seeing the warm blue green water shining through the setting
afternoon sun was...well, it was like summer. It was like Summer Surfing.
felt good to surf.
How long will this swell hang around? Ha! You all know as well as me,
it could be gone as I write this. It might be here in the morning, then
again, it could be long gone. I'll be on it first light though. With a
belly full of fruit and cheerios and my veins running super strong caffeine.
I'll have my Fish and my Longboard and several summer suits to choose
from. And if it's still good, well, I'll have a big ole smile on my face.
From ear to ear. Just like the rest of you.
you all had a good 4th of July. Too bad there was no surf. Or
rather, too bad the surf was so small...and cold.
I managed to watch the Discovery Launch with my youngest daughter
Noelle. That was pretty cool. I had forgotten how fast that thing
goes. Yikes! My buddy Phil who lives near Orlando got
to see the vapor trails go by his place. So cool. What a great way to
celebrate the Fourth of July. With the first ever launch of the
space shuttle on July 4th. That was historic.
I hope you took the time to see it.
And then, that idiot Kim Jong il from North Korea decides
that he's gonna launch 6 missiles on our birthday? He's got missiles
that can reach the United States. His goal is to put a Nuclear
warhead on one of those bad boys and take it to the bargaining table.
What's wrong with some dictators? Maybe someone should pull this little
dweeb aside and let him know how much of a "Kook" he is. I
mean have you seen this guy? He wears lifts in his shoes because he's
only 3' 5" tall. He's got a totally wacked hairstyle, and he wears
those old WWII uniforms. Come on Kim! Wake up dude! Maybe someone
should take him surfing. I remember seeing a photo of decent surf in
North Korea just a few months ago. Maybe if this whack job took
up surfing he'd quit with the long range missile testing. Any volunteers?
But one thing's for sure, the world is less safe with people like this
nut job around. And I do mean our world. You know, the surfing world
we live in. Same with Iran's president. Another loose cannon.
I swear there are times when I stop and observe what's going on in the
world today and think to myself, the only way this madness will ever
stop will be because of one or two things. 1. God finally shows
up and says "enough is enough". 2. Or, some
Alien invasion takes place all over the world and they show us
all how to get along, or else. Otherwise, it's only going to get worse,
before it gets better.
I'm looking at this from a selfish objective. I have always wanted to
surf 3 places before I die. The Ranch, J-Bay and Kirra. I've
already surfed one of the two, and would really like to surf the others.
But, I'd like to see the world settle down before I do. Is that too
much to ask people?
World peace, so we can all sample the waves all over the world without
the worry of Nuclear War and Terrorism?
Maybe it is...
Is this Summer shaping up to be like last summer? Hell No. But it's
still early. Things could get better. Meanwhile check out last summer
SUMMER 05 Promo poster.
It's in the Shops and available at my other site
The Sox are back on top! And the Patriots start in just
3 weeks. Are you ready for some football? Actually, I can wait. At least
until our first real Hurricane hits.
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace.
Surf For Fun.