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Ralph Pic Of The Week

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Archives

July 16, 2006

I don't know how many of you have seen the new SURFER Magazine that's out, but on the cover is a beautiful shot of Reef McIntosh standing up in a HUGE Backside Barrel at Cloudbreak in Tavarua. The shot is from the very same session that Crop and Phil were witness to. It truly is an awe inspiring photograph. It's also very deceptive. Because as nice and as perfect as the photo seems to indicate, it's nothing of the sort. It is in fact, very dangerous. I know, I edited the footage from those sessions. It's amazing how a still photograph can paint all kinds of false impressions. That wave is indeed perfect, but it can also kill you. Like in dead.

Anyway, that same issue has a list of 67 things you need to do before you catch your last wave. To my surprise, I was able to acknowledge 62 out of the 67. There were five things on that list that I have not done. Which ones are they? Well, I've never commanded my own boat into a surf break. (58) I have been the first mate to several outer reef and outer Island trips with Captain Hazzard (Lenny Nichols) on Oahu over the years. But I've never put it all together as the Captain of my own ship.

And another is, I've never entered a Surf Contest. (2) How can this be you ask yourselves? How can I, who announces the where and when Surf Contests take place, lay claim to having never entered one? Well, it's true. I do support the local ESA and the contest scene (it's great for the kids and for getting good surfing on video) but, it was never for me. I guess, I'll always have the perfect contest record. Or maybe, I'll wait until I'm 75 and then I'll enter one. That would be funny. Especially if I beat Kevin Grondin. Oh the inhumanity of it all. Sorry Kevin. I just think it would be hilarious if the first contest I ever entered, was against you, and I actually won. But that won't happen for two reasons. First, I'm keeping my record perfect. I won't enter at any age. And second, Kevin can surf circles around me. He always has, and the last time I checked, he shows no signs of slowing down.

The others are number (48) Stump your doctor. This is one where your supposed to contract some wacked out disease while surfing some exotic break and then stump your doctor. Never happened to me. Then there's (61) Watch the Pipemasters from the beach. Never had that opportunity. Finally, (19) Get Interviewed by Curious Gabe. Well, that never happened. Somehow I can't say that my life is shallow because of never having Curious Gabe interview me.

How big of a deal is it? I mean doing 62 of the 67 things on that list. Not much. I was just surprised to read that I have already accomplished most on that list, or in some cases, suffered some. I guess I need to see about filling the last 5 on that list to qualify as the "Been there done that" Surfer. Or maybe I don't.

I'm secure and content of where I'm at in my surfing life. We should all be. I'm not saying you shouldn't spread your wings and experience all that surfing has to offer. I just don't think you need to follow what some magazine guys came up with as a "Must do" before you die concept. In fact, I'll add number 68 to the 67 things to do.
Here it is Number 68...
Try surfing in New England for one whole year.

 


That swell last Sunday was such a tease. I mean, we surfed. We actually surfed. It felt good. Now it feels bad. The water temp today was so nice. It was "trunking it all the way" nice. And it was glassy too. But there was no surf. Well, there was small surf for those of you who are just starting out. But the rest of us? We're starving. We need surf. Someone said something about surf on Thursday. Ha! I'll believe it when I see it. I feel bad for the older guys and girls. And, I feel bad for the younger ones too. But this is our world friends. Summer in New England.

Last Summer was so much better. It was consistent and warm. This summer is the opposite. If you want waves you gotta travel for them. Like the Reynolds, The Linsemans and the Grondins. They all scored great surf this summer. They are NOT suffering like the rest of us. They have gotten their bellies full of good waves. Unlike you and me. They are satisfied. They are sickly plump with the memories of warm double overhead tropical barrels. While you and I are getting 3 hour chest high swells once every 2 weeks.

And to add insult to injury. The dam Greenheads are out.

Now I don't know about you guys, but them dam bugs to me, are the worst of what our summers produce. Tourists clogging the beaches and the Greenheads eating our asses alive while we grovel over 1' slop...is not my idea of summer fun. Far from it. Why I bet I got bit 8 times today alone. One of them Greenheads actually bit my neck while I was surfing on a wave. Are you kidding me? He bit me while I was riding? Why do them Greenheads have to be so dam hurtful? I call 'em "Satan's Little Helpers". I mean how else can you describe an insect that is so "hell bent" on biting you that it would take a full on human slap, get knocked silly to the ground, then get back up and attack you again? Gotta be the work of the devil. God wouldn't make them dam things. Nope, it's the work of Satan.
Dam Greenheads.

Speaking of vicious attacks, are the Israelis the Greenheads of the Middleast or what? I mean, they are like Yellowjackets. If you step on 'em they are coming after you. No if's ands or buts about it. They are coming. And they are bringing their sharp teeth. Last week I was concerned about Kim Jong il in North Korea (I still am), this week the whole Middleast is blowing up. Look I know the whole Palestine/Israel land dispute has been ongoing, but the Hezzbollah and Hamas are two Terrorist organizations that are supported by both Syria and Iran. That spells trouble for all of us. Yes us, meaning 'us Surfers'. There's surf in the Mideast. There really is. There are Surfers living with the threat of an errant missile landing in the middle of their hometown beachbreak. It's true. Look it up. People surf in the Mideast.

Look, we all want world peace and the freedom to be able to surf wherever we want in this world. Right now, that's not possible. The world needs to change. I don't have any answers or suggestions. However, I do have hope.
Faith, Hope and Love.
.
If you want summer surf, buy my new movie. SUMMER 05 Promo poster. Otherwise start praying, or start sacrificing something. The movie's in the Shops and available at my other site www.surffreeordie.com

Remember my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace.
Surf For Fun.

Ralph
 


Yesterday 1974 Robin"Robink" Rowell Salt Creek, Southern Cal
 Life is funny. There was a time back in the 70's and 80's when my friend Robin Rowell would spend his winters in California and then spend his Summers and Fall in New England. We have lots of fond memories hanging out with the crew at 10th Street waiting for the Hurricanes to arrive. Lots of laughs and great times. None of us I'm sure ever thought those days would end. We'd be young and healthy forever. We'd all live to surf another summer together. But life has a way of catching up to us all. Some of the crew from those days have passed away and some have drifted off and got away from surfing altogether. Some of us however, remain ever vigil. Keeping the flame burning at the coast. Especially at 10th Street. We still own that piece of cement and keep watch over her. Now-a-days, Robin's young nephew Kyle Howard has taken the place of Robin in his annual Summer sojourns to New Hampshire. Watching Kyle and my son Max, along with Kody Grondin and Jesse Gould hangout and surf, is like reliving that time period in my life. It's like we've come full circle. I still miss Robin and his visits, but I look forward to seeing Kyle (who actually looks like Robin) and the new generation of Surf buddies as they form their own fond memories. And just like those days of yesterday, I hope the surf comes up, and we all share in the glory of riding waves among friends. Photo courtesy of Robin Rowell

 

Today 2006 What I did on my Summer Vacation (More Costa Rica)
Last week I told you about Johnny Reynolds and his son Perry and their Costa Rican trip . Now it's Ken Linseman and his son Kyle's turn. Enjoy the photos...because this is as close as you'll get to waves like this unless you travel for them. It's out there if you want it...ya just gotta pay for it.
Photos by Alfonso and John Lyman


Kyle Linseman CR watershot. Photo by Alfonso

Kyle Linseman hitting the brakes for total coverage. Photo by Alfonso


Kyle Linseman CR cuttie. Photo by Alfonso




Kyle Linseman steep and deep in CR. Photo by Alfonso




Kyle Linseman CR watershot number two. Photo by Alfonso




Kenny Linseman CR bottom turn. Photo by John Lyman



Kenny Linseman Holding back a glassy lip. Photo by John Lyman



Kyle Linseman stalling again. Photo by John Lyman




Johnny Reynolds off the bottom of a beautiful wave. Photo by John Lyman




A beautiful wave. Photo by John Lyman



Another beautiful wave. Photo by John Lyman



A beautiful EMPTY wave. Photo by John Lyman



An empty wave and gliding pelicans. Photo by John Lyman




Johnny Reynolds off the bottom of a PERFECT wave. Photo by John Lyman



Perry Reynolds on a BIG Wave for anyone! ALRIGHT PERRY! Photo by John Lyman



Kyle Linseman cutting back again. Photo by John Lyman




Johnny Reynolds inside a PERFECT wave. Photo by John Lyman



Somebody better pinch this kid. He may think he's dreaming here. Perry Reynolds on another BIG Wave.
Photo by John Lyman




Kyle Linseman on a Froth Monster. Photo by John Lyman




Kyle Linseman on another Frothy Monster. Photo by John Lyman



Johnny Reynolds gettin snappy! Photo by John Lyman



Johnny Reynolds inside a PERFECT GLASSY wave. Photo by John Lyman




Kyle Linseman looking for shelter from the hot CR sun. Photo by John Lyman



Kyle Linseman Speed run. Photo by John Lyman



Perry Reynolds... What I did on my summer vacation. Photo by John Lyman




Parting Shot SUMMER COOK-OUT
 This just in from the Phantom. The boys in Cali have developed a new Summer Grilling Technique that's taken the West Coast by storm. Call it Broke Back Hot Dog Grill...Go figure!
 Photo courtesy of the Phantom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 







 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 







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