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Got some tropical photos in from our boy John Carden today. His first ever trip to the Islands. He seems to be digging life there (Maui). How the hell could he not?
I remember my first trip to Oahu. What a wake up call that was. Everything seemed bigger. The waves. The boards. The locals. It was my baptism of fire. The North Shore of Oahu is unforgiving. The surf and locals (back in those days) could care less about you, or where you came from. "New England? Where's that? You surf in the snow brah?
Man that's crazy!" I'd have to agree with them. They knew, that we were not a threat to them, or their waves. And that was a good thing for us.
I remember the first time I paddled out in 20' (faces) surf and wished I had stayed on the beach. I sat on my board for a long time, just watching and dodging sets. Wondering how the hell I was going to get back to the beach. It was a very humbling moment for me. I realized right then and there, that I was never going to be a Big Wave Surfer. It was as if, a light had gone off in my head. I was actually happy and content with this new found logic and knowledge. I would live my life surfing waves up to 10' and that would fine with me. Anything 15' and over, was not for me. I knew that, on that day, many years ago. If I could just get a small 12-15 foot wave in, I would be happy.
Well my friends, I made it back. And I couldn't wait to get back to New England.
I went back to the Islands many times after that first Big Wave encounter. And I did go out in Big Surf again, but I never "ripped" in Big surf. Hardly. I can honestly say. I have surfed in Big Waves, but I am NOT a Big Wave surfer.
Hope that makes sense.
I enjoyed a nice 6-8' warm water, not crowded session, way more than I did, a tense BIG Wave sesh, with aggressive locals in the water. Call me crazy, but that's what I liked.
I know there are plenty of New Englanders who have relished the chance to surf in Big Waves in Hawaii. I take my hat off to them. And I also know, there are plenty more who feel like I do. There's no shame in that my friends.
Happy Birthday to Kim Grondin, Allen Bigbee and Kody Grondin. A Speedy get well to Dave Cropper and Mackey V. As always, our thoughts and prayers are with those loved ones who are sick. And to those who have lost loved ones recently.
Thanks again for buying my movie NxNE .
Remember my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace. Surf For Fun.
1986 Vince Standing on the beach at Lani's after a fun sesh
(Above) "Mind if I join ya?" Two friends sharing a peak. Photo by R. Fatello SFOD
The Phantom Goes Italiano!
courtesy of The Phantom
(Above) New England or Italy? It's Italy! Photo courtesy of The Phantom