has become increasingly apparent to me, that my son Max and I are
not on the same page when it comes to surfing these New England
waters. Now don't get me wrong, we are still best friends and have ourselves
the best of times in everything we do. However, now that he's getting
closer and closer to the dreaded age of 16 and he's changing physically
in front of my very eyes, he wants to surf places that I don't. In other
words, Max would rather surf in a crowd, with all his buddies banging
rails with everybody in North America, than surf alone with me.
He likes to get in the crowd, and mix it up. And God forbid if I happen
to be on a Longboard. That only adds to the tension. I knew this day would
be coming, it's just that, I didn't see it coming for quite sometime.
Like maybe never.
Hey, Lil Ralphie was 16 once. I know what it's like. I remember
thinking that my dad (at certain times) could not be very cool around
me and my friends. But, my dad didn't really surf. I mean, he loved the
ocean and all, but he was not a hard core surfer. Like me. I'm still very
much into surfing. I still eat sleep and drink the waves. Max knows
this. But he'd still rather surf with the crowds. You know. I say "Rights"
and he says "Lefts."
I will find myself out in the water trying to motion him discreetly to
paddle over to where I am. Of course, he pretends that he doesn't see
me. And when I do get his attention, he's usually paddling for another
He and his buddies, Jesse, Casey, Kody and Fresh are trying
to constantly push the envelope. Every now and then, I'll look up and
see one them pull off a 360.
H-m-mm. Look, I'll never do a 360. At least not intentionally.
And as far as getting air? I don't think so. I'm from a different era.
The closest we ever got to getting air was the extended floaters. The
thought of me launching myself up and out of a wave in 2' of water is
a frightening scenario. For sure, something will break. And it would hurt.
I don't want to get hurt surfing. I want to have fun.
Usually on the ride home, we'll both claim that the waves that each of
us had was better than the other's waves. Of course, I am right and he's
wrong. I mean I'm the dad. I must know more than he does. Right?
One thing's for sure, as long as I'm still driving him to the surf, he'll
have to at least put up with where and when I want to go. Of course, there's
always his mother driving him and his sister. And Dougie Fresh...dam.
Maybe if I work on my 360's I'll be cool again. Maybe if I launch
an air at the Wall tomorrow morning I'll redeem myself in the eyes
of the Young Groms.
Maybe. Maybe not.
Actually, as long as I keep making Surf Movies I'll be hip to him and
his friends. They ain't gonna burn that bridge.
By now, most of you have woken up to the fact that we have waves. Granted
not very big. But there's something to push you around out there. I hope
you got out. Cuz if you didn't...it will be gone come morning. Hey it's
New England and it's Summer. There's no guarantees out there.
You know that.
The rule of thumb to surfing around these parts in the dead of Summer
Surf comes up-Go Surfing.
Wait for it to get better-You won't be Surfing.
One of the hardest parts about being a New England surfer is,
having friends from other consistent Surf Locales pay you a visit. My
friend Doug and his wife Robin flew in from California
today for a short visit. He's seen most of my movies, so he knows what
kind of surf we can get. Of course, that's the hard part. Because you
all know, that there's no guarantees that there will be surf. Ask poor
Lenny Nichols, Director of the ESA-NNE District who's
only had one surf contest all summer due to lack of surf. I mean, it's
a bona fide Crap shoot at best. Doug has been emailing me all
Summer long hoping to get some Surf like the surf I shot in SUMMER
05. I of course, was trying to let him know that this Summer has
been sort of a letdown. I was depressed all week. There was nothing
on the horizon.
So when they showed up today, I was excited because we had a little
waist to chest high swell running. I was trying to be discreet and cool
by letting him know, that we really should be hitting the surf now,
as in RIGHT NOW. But the Californian mindset got the best of
them. They just figured they'd surf on Monday. Well, that remains
to be seen. However, it's not looking good. You know it and I know it.
Too bad my Westie friends don't know it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed
but I'm not expecting much. Oh well.
It's just that I've been dying to get Doug and his friend Jeff
Chamberlain and company to come out here to surf forever. I'd send
them all my movies over the years, and they read this column every week,
so they know what we get. Or rather, what we can get.
Although I must say, whenever Kyle Howard comes out to visit
from the West Coast every Summer, his luck is 100% on.
He's hit it better than anyone I know. Lucky? Or something bigger and
better watching over this golden boy? My guess is, it's the latter.
He's earned it.
Hey I'm sorry about the Red Sox losing like they did against
the evil Yankees. It don't seem right to get spanked that bad.
But the Patriots looked good last night. Real good. The running
backs were having a field day on the Card's weak defense. Maroney,
Dillon, and Falk are a formidable threesome. The kicker Gostkowski
looked great...(Adam who?) And we even got a sneak preview of
Junior Seau who was wearing Willie's old number 55...although
he didn't play. The defense looked pretty good too. And with the return
of Bruschi and Harrison back by Regular season they should
be fine. The Deion Branch holdout didn't seem to matter last
night. Although, he's clearly the number one receiver the Pats
have. Lord knows how much Tom Brady thinks of him. But, Watson
and Childress looked good. Brady was great. Cassel
looked good too. Hell, they all looked good. It's dam near football
season people! And that has to mean...SUMMER's almost Over! The
Tourists will go home! The surf will come back and we'll all live happily
ever after. Amen.
On a sad note. All of us from Cinnamon Rainbows want to extend
our most sincere sympathies to Bridgett Fleming's family to the
recent loss of Bridgett's mother. May she rest in peace with
again for all the positive feedback on SUMMER
05 The movie's in the Shop and available at my other site
my friends...Surfing heals all wounds....
Pray for Surf. Pray for Peace.
Surf For Fun.