Surfing saved my life. No question about it. It has saved me, countless of times.

And I guess that must be true with so many of you. I can't tell you how many times it has pulled me back from the pits of despair, and the depths of darkness, that seem to envelop you, when things go wrong. When things seemed so hopeless. Like how the pain of losing a loved one, just seems to eat you up. How the simple act of surfing just made things easier again. It's true. Surfing, and the ocean, saved me.

Some might argue, that it is a higher being that saved me. That it was God.

I believe in God. And I believe in Jesus. But this is not about them. It is about surfing.

The act of riding a wave. The pure sensation of paddling through a wave, and feeling that saltwater on my face, as I paddle out into the line-up to catch a wave. All of the little things. Just sitting on my board. Or just lying on my board and taking it all in. Watching the empty waves go by. Or watching a friend, or family member, get a good wave. How that feeling of seeing them get a good ride, makes you feel so good inside. It's called being stoked.

And how all the things that are piling up, and bothering you out of the water, can wait until you cleanse yourself. And it's not that, when you are done surfing, they are going to go away. It's the knowing, that you have surfing, and that you can retreat back to the ocean, and feel better about your life, and your situation with the knowledge, that if things get too bad, a good day of surfing will help you.

And you can go back, and face the problem, with a whole fresh new outlook.

Why all this cleansing of the soul banter this week you ask yourself? Well, it's easy to stop feeling sorry for yourself, and complaining about how bad you have it, when you are faced with the reality of what others have to deal with on a daily basis. And trust me. For those of you who have lived a protective life, and have never faced the kinds of things, that can change you, both physically and mentally for a lifetime, it is a sobering awakening.

Men and women who have been wounded by our nation's wars, have every right to be bitter and negative. But the men and women I have met in my life, who have the scars of war with them forever, are anything but. In fact, they are just the opposite.



For the last four years, our surfing community has hosted the WOUNDED WARRIOR PROJECT. This year was The 4th Annual WOUNDED WARRIORS HIT THE BEACH IV. It was held on Thursday, at 18th Street, on North Beach in Hampton. This year was our biggest event yet. We had close to 20-25 veterans who bore both the physical and emotional wounds of war.

And they are both real and significant.

Speaking on behalf of the volunteers, this is something that we all look forward to each summer. Spending time with these men and women, who have sacrificed so much, and to be able to give back to them, the act of surfing is pretty special. Most of us surfers are very protective of our lifestyle. And especially our surf breaks. To be able to share this special gift of surfing, and to share our surf spots with these men and women, is just so rewarding, that it is hard to put into words. There just are not enough words to describe the feeling. And I know the volunteers who are reading this, are nodding their heads in agreement. It's such a tremendous feeling.

There's no better feeling than giving back to those who have suffered. And not just the Veterans themselves, but their families too. And some of these vets brought their wives and kids too. For those who have surfed with your kids. You know what that feels like. Imagine being confined to a wheelchair, or be missing a limb, or have emotional problems, and then to be able to overcome these handicaps, and be able to share fun summer waves, with your family members?

Can you imagine what that must feel like?

Of course you can. You're surfers. Imagine what it must be like for them. They were so stoked. It was as if the switch was turned on, and everyone just lit up. I watched 4 young men who had recently served in Afghanistan, try surfing for the first time and they were stoked beyond belief. A few of them were in Afghanistan two weeks ago. I was joking with them saying, "you guys must still have Afghan sand in your teeth.And now you have North Beach sand mixed in there too!"

It was awesome watching these brave men and women who have sacrificed so much for our country, and their families, just having the best day on the beach by trying surfing. I've said it before, but I'll say it again ...It is truly one of the best days of the Summer for me personally, and for those who volunteer and those who participate. If you've never been part of something like this, you are truly missing out on one of life's greatest pleasures.

And if you've never volunteered, or stopped to help someone along the way, you are incomplete. Give back. Lend a hand. Help someone. Don't think about it. Like the folks at Nike say...JUST DO IT! Trust me, you will become a better person.

I do need to thank the following:

Cinnamon Rainbows, Pioneers, Zapstix, Summer Sessions, ESA-NNE, American Legion POST 35, Freshen Fruit Cups, Dunkin Donuts, The Nudd Family, the Hampton Fire Dept, the HPD, the NH Parks and Recreation, and the hundreds of volunteers. Those in the water and those on land. You guys are awesome. You all made this day special.

And Finally, the WOUNDED WARRIOR PROJECT and the NH Adaptive Sports group are two great organizations. But to the Veterans themselves Thank you for your sacrifices. For our country, your families, and for all of us.



Once again, we hope that you all enjoyed yourselves, and that surfing becomes a part of your life....remember my brothers and sisters-"Surfing Heals All Wounds..."